Showing posts with label prits. Show all posts
Showing posts with label prits. Show all posts

Wednesday, 30 December 2020

Hidden Gems of Konkan - Ganeshgule, Kasheli and unexplored area near Mervi

 The year 2020 was a covid-19 year. Everything was new for everyone and as covid cases go down, we all started with new normal life. Travelling and exploring new places is my passion. Considering the situation, we decided to arrange a small trip for relaxation and explore some untouched Konkan beaches. My first priority was to visit Ganeshgule as my friend owns a beautiful hotel and the place is always less crowded. Our (Me and Wife Renuka) close friend Himanshu-Ketki and their daughter, Ameya, Ashutosh-Sanjana, and their kids were co-travellers. Another couple Tushar-Neha joined us there as coincidently they were on their Ratnagiri trip.

Devghali Beach or Kasheli Beach
Devghali Beach or Kasheli Beach

About Ganeshgule, Kasheli, and surrounding places:
             Ganeshgule, a village few kilometres ahead of Pawas offers you a beautiful untouched beach. Not much explored by tourists hence it offers a sandy beach with crystal clear water. Ganeshgule beach is a km-long beach blocked by mountains on both sides. It offers you peace of mind & freedom to stroll and bath in the blue waters whenever you feel.
Ratnagiri city is the nearest port city to Ganeshgule on the Arabian Sea coast. It is a main city from the Konkan region and famous for its Alphonso Mangoes, Birthplace of “Lokmanaya” Bal Gangadhar Tilak, prime leader of India’s freedom movement, and Shivaji’s Fort. There are many tourist points in the Ratnagiri district that are blessed with untouched and beautiful beaches.

The route to reach Ganeshgule from Pune is –
Take National Highway 48 (Old Number 4) – Drive till Karad city on the highway – Cross Karad and drive for a few km – after Karad, look for the first flyover on the highway – Do not take flyover route – Take right below the flyover – Drive on State highway – Malkapur – Amba – Sakharpa – Pali (Do not confuse with Pali from Ashtavinayak locations) – Drive towards the south for few km on NH – Take left after crossing Patergaon – Ganeshgule.
Alternate route is Pune – Amba ghat – Sakharpa – Ratnagiri – Pawas – Ganeshgule.

The total distance via this route is around 304km.

Other routes are Tahmini – Mangaon – Mumbai Goa national highway OR 
Pune – Umbraj – Koyanagar – Chiplun – Ratnagiri - Ganeshgule.

Day 1: 26 December 2020 - Pune to Ganeshgule
              We woke up early in the morning and left home at 6 AM with our friends. We wanted to avoid the highway traffic and enjoy the morning breeze. Before Khambatki Ghat, we took a pit stop for Wada-pav at Shriram hotel. We decided to go by the Amba ghat route. After crossing Karad, we took right from the Amba ghat route. We had our lunch in Hotel Kasturi which is close to Amba ghat. Considering the number of travellers, there were multiple pit stops and we finally reached Ganeshgule by 4:30ish in the evening. 

Ganeshgule Beach
Ganeshgule Beach

             We reached Oceano Pearl home stay resort. The resort was a mixture of Konkani-modern style with a lot of greenery and with a huge farm of different trees (Wadi in Marathi) like Coconuts, Alphonso, and many more. They have AC rooms and one treehouse (Not in Function due to Covid and maintenance), close to the beach. Management and staff from the resort welcomed us with a smile. We booked 3 AC rooms which were cleaned with all required amenities. When we used to visit the Ganeshgule, there was not a single hotel but now there are a couple of more Homestay/hotels available

Oceano Pearl resort
Oceano Pearl resort

              We took tea coffee and then went to the beach. Ganeshgule beach is around 1.5-2 km long beach and gives you a feel of a private beach. With white soft sand all over the beach, it was very neat and clean. Water was so clear that we were unable to stop ourselves from going into the water. It was a good evening to spend time with friends and their kids on the beach. We had our dinner in Oceano Pearl hotel before our day ends. Ashutosh and his family have stayed at the nearby homestay. 

Sunset from Ganeshgule Beach
Sunset from Ganeshgule Beach

Major Expenses:
  • Car Fuel: INR4000/-
  • Resort Stay: INR4000/- per Room per night for 3 people with breakfast
  • Lunch at Kasturi restaurant, Amba Ghat: INR160 for Veg Thali and INR200 for chicken Thali
  • Dinner: INR2700/- for 3 people with veg and seafood dishes.

Day 2: 27 December 2020 - Ganeshgule, Kasheli
               We woke up early morning and went to the beach. Ganeshgule has a long, scenic, unexplored beach. Only we were on the beach with only the sea waves for a company and it was like we were on our private beach. We spent around an hour on the beach. There is a Small Mountain on the right side of the beach. It takes hardly 20 min to reach the top of the hill. The location of the rocky plateau on the mountain makes this place a perfect location for peace where you can only hear sea waves. One wave after another was seen on the rocky area as if they were trying to climb the rock to meet us. The location is covered by sea from 3 sides and a beautiful sunset on the horizon. The view of the sea from here is breathtaking and this is the best place to witness the sun on the horizon spreading orange-red colour all over the sky. This is one of my favourite places from the Konkan coastal area.

Morning Time on Beach



               We came back to the hotel for breakfast. Today we planned to visit Kasheli. Kasheli is a coastal village in the Ratnagiri District of Maharashtra, with a secluded, unexplored Devghali beach with an amazing view. Kasheli village is especially known for Shri Kanakaditya Temple. Distance from Ganeshgule is around 22km whereas 40-42km from Ratnagiri. 
              You can visit the Purnagad fort which is on the bank of the River. We skipped this place as we all visited earlier. On the way, we took a pit stop at Gaonkhadi beach. Beach is untouched, very cleaned, and maintained by villagers. No tourists and food stall which makes this place very clean and beautiful. The small hill is just aside from the beach so if you want to have a look at the entire beach then a small hill climbing can fulfil your wish. 

Village near Gaonkhadi Beach

              We reached Kasheli and went to Temple. Sri Kanakaditya Temple is one of the few temples situated in Maharashtra that is dedicated to the Sun God. The idol from the temple is 800 years old and is made out of black stone. The temple is rustic with a big sabha-mandap of local architecture. There is a legend about the standing idol of Lord Sun in this Mandir, where a sailor from Saurashtra, carrying the idol of Lord Aditya in his boat, couldn’t sail beyond the sea waters of Kasheli. He had to leave the idol in a cave in the adjacent hills, wherefrom a lady devotee got messages about the idol’s location in her dreams and the villagers found the idol there.

Sri Kanakaditya Temple, Kasheli
Sri Kanakaditya Temple, Kasheli

              Our next spot was Devghali beach which is also popularly known as Kasheli beach. It is around 10-15 min away and you can reach the top of a mountain by car. There is no proper road built up till the parking point. You have to climb down to reach the beach. Beach is very small and nestled in between rocky shore. There is a small cave on one side of the Beach. There are proper steps laid to climb down. At the midpoint, the sunset viewpoint is built to enjoy the sunset. 



             Beach has soft sand, clean water, and a well-maintained area. Better to avoid swimming in the water due to rocky areas and sudden depth in water. Soaking in water is definitely gives you a refreshing feel. We spend around 30-40 min on the beach. you may feel tired while climbing steps to the top. 2 local shops offer you local drink and water.

Kasheli Beach or Devghali Beach
Kasheli Beach or Devghali Beach

              We were hungry by the time we reach the top. We decided to stretch a bit and travel back to Pawas for lunch. We had our tasty lunch at the restaurant Aradhya. They serve tasty veg, non-veg, and seafood thali. After a delicious meal, we came back to the hotel. 

Seafood meal

              We spend the evening on the beach. Kids were enjoying the making of sandcastle and sea waves. we witness the beautiful sunset from the beach and came back to the hotel. Today's dinner was planned at the Atharva cottage where Ashutosh and their family were staying. The food was good in taste. After dinner, we went back to the hotel for a rest.

Sunset

Major Expenses: 
  • Lunch at Aradhya: INR1575/- for 9 people (Veg meal INR100, Chicken meal INR120, egg meal INR100, Kingfish meal INR350, Pomfret fish meal INR450)
  • Dinner at Atharva: Approx INR2500-3500/- for 9-10 people (veg and fish meal) along with Modak in Sweet
Day 3: 28 December 2020 - The unexplored area near Mervi 
              As part of our ritual, we woke up early and went to the beach for a morning walk. Post breakfast, We decided to explore the beach which is south of Mervi. Beach is not listed on google map and there is no road to reach the beach. We took Ameya's UV car which was a good option for off-roading. Our target was to explore 2 beaches, one on the north side of Mervi and another one on the south of Mervi. By the end of our exploration, we land upon exploring one beach whereas we spot the route for the second beach. (By the time my blog is published, someone tagged both beaches by the name Mervi which is not the case). I have shared a tentative GPS coordinate in case someone interested to visit. We Cross Jambhul aad village and then took right turn for Mervi Village. after a certain point, we left the road and started off-roading with XUV car. The entire area is a flat rocky plateau and then we climbed down to reach the beach. We saw an Indian wolf during our off-roading.




Untouched Beach

             We parked the car at a certain point and then climbed down the hill to reach the beach. There is no route/trail to climb down hence take proper care and mind your steps. Beach is small and rocky. Beach was flat and clean. There are plenty of rocky patches hence not recommended for swimming. It's not easily accessible for anyone. Kids are not recommended on this beach. As there is private property from where you can access this beach. Stepping down and again climbing up is not that easy for everyone. Indeed it was a wonderful treat for us to get this opportunity to visit this beach. You can take a walk on the north side of the beach to explore the next beach which looks like Om.

Unknown beach near Mervi




               After exploring this untouched beach, we travel back to Pawas for lunch. We had lunch at the restaurant Aradhya and did a quick visit to Pawas.  Pawas is well known for the Ashram of Swami Swaroopanand and is a few km from Ganeshgule village. Pawas is a prime spiritual place in the Ratnagiri district due to a very long stay of Swami (saint) Swaroopanand. He was born on 15th December 1903 at Pawas. At the age of 20, he had received the initiation (Diksha) from his Guru Sadguru Babamaharaj Vaidya from Pune. From this point, his journey in the spiritual world had begun. At the age of 70, on 15th August 1974, Swamiji took Samadhi (self-immolation) at Pawas. The temple in Pawas is very clean and well maintained.
            For evening time, we went to rocky hill from Ganeshgule beach. Watching the sunset from that point is a treat to the eye. After spending some time on the beach, We returned to the hotel and had dinner. It was a good relaxation break which we are looking for for a long time.

Sunset from Ganeshgule Beach

Major Expenses:
  • Lunch at Aradhya: Approx. INR 1300/- for 5 people
  • Dinner at Atharva: Approx INR1800/- for 8-9 people

Day 4: 29 December 2020 - Ganeshgule - Pune
           We left Ganeshgule via the Ratnagiri route by 11 AM. We took our small break at Ganeshgule temple. This temple is older than Ganpatipule. The Ganesh idol in the temple is the "Swayambhu" (i.e. formed naturally) idol with its trunk turned towards the west. The statue of the mouse in front of the temple is very beautiful and made up of metal alloy. You can see a beautiful valley view from the temple. There is an old ancient well opposite the temple. Local believes that Well was built in Pandava's era.



Ganeshgule Ganesh Temple
Ganeshgule Ganesh Temple

We travelled via Amba Ghat – National highway 4 and reached Pune safely by 10 PM

GPS locations:
  • Oceano Pearl beach homestay, Ganeshgule - 16.870456, 73.294762
  • Restaurant Aradhya: 16.875762, 73.323787
  • Kasheli Beach: 16.726635, 73.310179
  • North Mervi Beach : 
  1. Off-Roading start point - 16.836203, 73.306283
  2. Car parking spot - 16.839083, 73.294883 (Note, you need a good ground clearance car to reach this point)
  3. Beach - 16.838442, 73.294181
Contact Numbers for your References:
  • Oceano Pearl beach homestay at Ganeshgule: 02352-237800, 02352-219400, 8605599789, 9405340784
  • Restaurant Aradhya: 9168522797
Thanks for reading this Travel Blog. Happy travelling.

Pritesh Kulkarni
Pune

Sunday, 30 June 2019

Hidden Gem from Ujjani Dam - Palasnath Temple

Palasnath Temple was on my list from the last 3 years. Temple is located in the backwater of Ujjani Dam and people are only able to visit the temple in case of heavy drought. For rest of the time, it is submerged under the backwater of Ujjani Dam. Temple was accessible in the year 2016 but I missed to visit the temple. I was praying that temple should remain in my wishlist forever but unfortunately, 2019 drought opened the temple for Visit.

Palasnath Temple
Palasnath Temple

About Ujjani Dam and Palasdev village:
              Ujjani Dam is built on Bhima river hence it is also known as Bhima Dam. Dam's construction began in the year 1969 and completed 1980. The storage capacity of the Dam is around 110 TCM. The reservoir created by the Dam is one of the largest backwaters in India. Backwater length is around 50km. Ujjani Dam backwater near Bhigwan is famous for migratory birds in winters.
            Temple was part of Palasdev Village which was located on the bank of Bhima river before Ujjani Dam. In ancient time, Village name was Ratnapur as per record and famous of Market at that time. The village consists of 5 temples and one of them was Palasnath temple. It was dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva.

To Reach Temple from Pune is - Join Solapur Highway - Cross Bhigwan - After a few kms, you can see Palasdev village arch on left - Take a left in Village - Follow the road and park your vehicle on the backwater bed (Make sure that Land is completely dry) - Take a walk towards Temple.
You may have to take a small boat ride to cross the backwater and Boats are available when the temple is accessible.

Palasnath Temple

June 2019 Visit:
             We left home after breakfast with friends and their kids. We reached the Temple area after 2-3 hours of journey. We took a boat to cross the small backwater channel to reach Palasnath Temple. Temple was built in the year 1157 (शके1079 as per Marathi calendar) by Dandanayak Chandev. Temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva.
             Within the area, there are two temples, one for Lord Vishnu and one for Lord Shiva. Temple with Kalas (कळस) is of Lord Shiva. Both temples are West facing. You can see Lord Hanuman idol outside of the temple. Temple has Mandpam, GarbhGruh (Temple's inner room to keep lord idol) and 3 side entrance. As per the Temple pillar structure, Temple was built under Yadav empire era. Shivlinga idol from Temple was relocated in the village during Ujjani Dam construction. you can see the beautiful carving on the Temple walls.

Lord Hanuman at Palasnath Temple
Lord Hanuman at Palasnath Temple

Inside Temple...Photo clicked by Ameya Deshpande
Temple Pillar...Photo clicked by Ameya Deshpande

Few ruined stone sculpture can be seen in the temple area. They are mainly Nandi (Lord Shiva's Vahan), Veergal (वीरगळ Standing Stone dedicated to brave person from emperor), SatiShila (सतीशिळा), Dashaavtar, Surasundari (सुरसुंदरी meaning celestial beauty) etc. In temple sculptures, the Surasundari are often depicted as attendants of gods and goddesses.  It also consists of Dharmshala (Rooms for stay purpose-built for devotees) in front of the temple.

Nandi

Veergal
Veergal

Dashavatar stone strip

Ancient time Bhakta Niwas

               There is another temple just a couple of meters away from Palasnath Temple. This temple is known as Lord Ram temple. Some people believe it is another temple of Lord Vishnu but as the outer wall of the temple has different stories of Ramayana. You can see Ramayana stories such as the war between Vali and Sugriva, Lord Hanuman destroying Ashokavan, Goddess Sita in Ashokvan, monkey army carrying Stone for Ram-Setu, Ravan with 5 faces and Lord Ram with Laxman. There are other stone sculptures such as Surasundari (सुरसुंदरी), snake, Lord Vishnu in meditation and many more.

Small Temple near Palasnath Temple...Photo clicked by Ameya Deshpande
Lord Hanuman destroying Ashokavan at Palasnath Temple
Lord Hanuman destroying Ashokavan...Photo clicked by Ameya Deshpande

Surasundari...Photo clicked by Ameya Deshpande

War Between Vali and Sugriva...Photo clicked by Ameya Deshpande

             Visiting early morning gives you the opportunity to spot some wetland birds like Greater Flamingo, Purple Swamphen, seagulls, Asian Openbill Stork, Painted Stork, Coot, Heron and many more. Best time to visit this place for bird watching in winter. You can check my Bhigwan Blogs here.

GPS Location of Palasnath Temple: 18.246586, 74.882470

I will try to upload more and more travel blogs. Thanks for reading this Travel Blog.

Pritesh Kulkarni 
Pune

Saturday, 7 July 2018

Monsoon trek to Chavand and Naneghat

Monsoon was on peak in Maharashtra and we don’t want to miss the opportunity for the trek. Wanted to avoid crowded and famous trek hence we decided to Visit Chavan fort from Junnar area along with a quick visit to Naneghat.

Trekkers for this trek were I, Himanshu and Aditya.

Chavand Fort
Chavand Fort

About Chavan and Naneghat:
              Chavand fort is in Junnar Taluka and around 15-6km from Junnar town. Fort was built during Satvaahan era. Fort Name was Prasannagad under the rule of Shivaji Maharaj. Chavandwadi is the Base village of the fort.
Naneghat is the mountain pass which was used as a trade route between Konkan (Mumbai Coastal) and ancient town of Junnar. It is around 30km from Junnar town. Mountain pass was built by Satvaahan empire and they carved cave at the entrance which has Brahmi script carved on the wall.

               To reach Chavand from Pune is Pune - Kasarwadi Phata - Pune-Nashik Highway - Take a left at Narayangaon - Junnar - Take the straight road from Shivaji statue - Chavandwadi.
The same road goes to Naneghat and distance from Chavan is around 15km.

GPS Location
Chavand Fort: 19.238097, 73.745905
Naneghat: 19.291958, 73.675661

7 July 2018: Pune - Chavand - Naneghat:
               Wari procession was planned in Pune city so to avoid the traffic, we decided to leave Pune before 5AM. We woke up at 4 and left Pune by 4:45AM. Journey on Nashik Highway was pretty smooth without any traffic. We reached by 6:30AM and had quick breakfast in Junnar town. We moved ahead for base village Chavandwadi. It was cloudy weather with some rain showers. You can view massive but beautiful Chavand fort and it’s rock patch from base village. There is enough space near the village school to park your vehicle.

Chavandwadi village

              We begin our trek. Chavand fort is small and it hardly takes 30-45 min to climb it. Steps were built by local authorities till the rock patch and then steps carved in rocks takes you to the entrance gate. Climbing the steep steps can make you a little tired. Each step is bigger than a regular step. Sometimes it is about a knee high. After climbing the steps, we reached the start point of the rock patch. This part of a trek uphill was indeed pretty interesting. There are few Steps cut in the rock patch. Those are more like small Footholds than the steps. Safely railing and rope with the bolt are mounted on the rock patch for trekkers safety.

Rock patch at Chavand Fort
Rock patch at Chavand Fort

              We reached the entrance gate after the Short climb. The entrance gate is in good condition and you can see Ganesh Idol on the top of the Entrance gate frame. It indicates that entrance is built/re-Built during the Maratha empire. There are two ways to enter in the fort, the Left route is parallel to fort wall but not in proper shape to explore. Take the right route to go to the top of Fort.

Entrance Gate of Chavand Fort
Entrance Gate of Chavand Fort

              After a few step climb, you can see many ruined fortification. It indicates that this fort was used as one of the main forts and not a watchtower. You can see trenches and Stone-pot in few ruined house. From this ruined place, one route goes to the top of the hill. Temple of goddess Chamunda is situated on the hill. Goddess belongs to Bengal/Bihar region. During Satvaahan era, Naneghat was built and it was trading route from coastal to central India. Trading People from Bihar or from Bengal brought the Goddess idol which was established on the fort. Fort name Chavand also came because of Goddess Chamunda. View of Sahyadri from this point is breathtaking. You can see Hadsar, Shivneri, Jeevdhan, and Naneghat fort. We came down to Ruined place after Darshan.

Temple at the top

              We went ahead to explore the fort. We saw the ruined temple. Temple is not in condition but you can see Shivlinga which indicates that the temple belonged to Lord Shiva. There is a water trench in front of the ruined temple. Some carved broken stones and broken Nandi can be seen in the ruined temple area.

Shiva Temple with broken Nandi and Lake

Ruined Shivliinga inside Shiva Temple

             we moved ahead to explore the fort area. We took right side route after a few meter walks keeping ruined temple on the right side. There are 7 water tanks aligned along each other. It is known as Saptamatrika and name of water tanks given as Brahmi, Maheshwari, Kaumari, Vaishnavi, Varahi, Indrayani & Chamunda which are powerful goddess names. We saw Human-made caves on the North-East side of Fort. There are around 5-6 caves. Local believes that they belonged to Satvaahan ear. Considering the construction of caves, they look like built during Nizam or Memperorempiror. It is mainly used by soldiers and to keep watch on the area. You can see a beautiful view of Manikdoh Dam.

7 Water trenches on Chavand Fort
7 Water trenches on Chavand Fort

Saptamatrika water trenches
Saptamatrika water trenches

Man-made Caves

Manikdoh Dam view

              After spending more than an hour, we left the fort. We climbed down quickly and went to our next destination which was Naneghat. Naneghat is the mountain pass which was used as a trade route between Konkan (Mumbai Coastal) and ancient town of Junnar. During the Satvahan era, Pratishtan (Now Paithan) was the capital whereas Jirnnagar (Now Junnar), Tagar (Ter) and Nashik were important cities. The trading route was required for traders from Coastal ports to Satvahan cities and hence Naneghat was built.

Naneghat
Naneghat

Naneghat

               The road is available till the start point of Naneghat. As this mountain pass was used as a trade route, tollbooth was placed to collect toll (Satvahan's currency: Karshapan coins). You can see a large stone pot to collect tolls from traders. Few meters ahead, we saw a Large cave. Cave has Brahmi script carved on the cave wall. This script consists of Numeric information, detail information on Satvahan kings and much more other information as well. You can see few water trenches outside Cave. Entire Trade route built by cutting mountain stone can be seen from here.

Man-made Cave at Naneghat

Stone pot to collect Toll at Naneghat
Stone pot to collect Toll at Naneghat

              Trekkers climb up entire Naneghat which is famous trek route. We climbed down a few meters and came back. We also had a quick climb on the mountain which is above Cave. Mountain peak is known as Nana cha Agatha (Uncle's Thumb) due to its Shape. Peak offers you a breathtaking view of Sahyadri.

Naneghat route

               We returned to Junnar town and had lunch at Multi-spice restaurant. Food was very tasty and service was quick. After lunch, we started our return journey to Pune. We reached home by 9 PM safely ending a pleasurable monsoon trek.

Our Expenses:
  • Car Fuel: INR 1500/-
  • Toll: INR 51/-
  • Breakfast and Coffee at Junnar: INR 185/- for 3 people
  • Lunch at Multi-spice: INR 620/- for 3 people (Starter, Soup, 1 veg dish and Rotis)

My Other travel blogs from the nearby area
Shivneri Fort and Malshej Ghat
Narayangad fort and Amba-Ambika caves

Thanks for reading this Travel Blog. Happy travelling.

Pritesh Kulkarni
Pune.

Sunday, 17 June 2018

Weekend trip to Panhala-Pawankhind

Our plan to Visit Mahalaxmi Temple (Our Kuldevi) was due and hence we planned a weekend trip to visit Temple along with Panhala fort and Pawankhind.
Travelers for this trip were I and Wife Renuka.

Pawankhind Waterfall
Pawankhind Waterfall

About Panhala and Pawankhind
             Panhala fort is around 20km away from Kolhapur. It was one of the important forts to keep watch on Deccan region. Notable events linked with Panhala were the escape of Shivaji Maharaj from Siddi Jouhar’s trap followed by Battle in Pawankhind, the capital fort of Kolhapur state, queen Tarabai’s life etc.
            Pawankhind is located around 66km from Kolhapur and 18km from Amba Village. It is famous for Battle of Pawankhind which between Siddi Masud of Adilshah and Great warrior Baji Prabhu Deshpande of Maratha empire.
            To reach Panhala from Pune is Pune - Natinal Highway 4 - Satara - Karad - Kini - Take right at Vathar Tarf Vadgaon Village - Panhala.
We went to Panhala from Kolhapur which is just 20km
To reach Pawankhind from Pune is Pune - national Highway 4 - Satara - Karad - Take right at Pachvad Phata - Kokrud - Malkapur - Amba - Take a left at Amba Village - Pawankhind
There is a direct route from Malkapur to Pawankhind via Pandharepani. The road is narrow with a few bad patches.

15 June 2018: Pune - Kolhapur:
              We left Home by 7PM after our office hours and had dinner near Wai Junction. After Dinner, we went to Kolhapur and reached a relative’s place by 11:30PM.

Expenses:
  • Toll 1: ₹135/-
  • Lunch: ₹330/- (Maharastrian vegitables, 4 Rotis, Rice and 2 Lemon Soda)
  • Toll 2: ₹60/-
  • Toll 3: ₹70/-
  • Toll 4: ₹70/-

16 June 2018: Kolhapur - Panhala - Amba:
              We woke up in the morning and went to Mahalaxmi Temple for Darshan. Temple is dedicated to Goddess Laxmi/AmbaBai which is considered as one of the 108 Shakti Peetha as per Hinduism.


Clicks from Mahalaxmi Temple

                 After Darshan, we visited the famous Misal Joint “Gavran Misal”. It is located in Rajarampuri area. Misal Joint is relatively new in Kolhapur and gained popularity in quick time. Like the rustic look and Misal was tasty.

Gavran Missal

                We left Kolhapur by 11AM for our next destination which was Panhala Fort. It was just 20km Away from Kolhapur. Fort can be seen by own vehicle as the proper road is available to reach every point. Panhala Fort was built by King Bhoj 2 from shilahar dynasty in 1178 to 1209 CE. Fort came under Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur in 1489. The major fortification was built in this period. Shivaji Maharaj took Panhala after the death of Afzal Khan in 1659. In 1660, Siddi Jauhar lays Siege to Panhala. After 5 months siege, Shivaji Maharaj able to escape with trusted Commander Baji Prabhu Deshpande. After Famous Battle of PawanKhind, Baji Prabhu Deshpande lost his life to secure Maharaj’s Life. Fort was recaptured in 1973 by Shivaji Maharaja’s warrior kondaji Farzand with only 60 brave warriors. Panhala came under Kolhapur king and then to British Raj.

Teen Darwaza
Teen Darwaza at Panhala Fort

              We visited Andhar Bavadi first at Panhala Fort. Andhar Bavadi means Hidden well. It was the drinking water source of Fort. Well is 3 story building with rooms around it. It looks like building from ground to misguided under attack.

Andhar Bavadi
Andhar Bavadi

              Teen Darwaza is located near Andhar Bavadi. Teen Darwaza (Means Three Entrance gate) is the main entrance of Panhala Fort and located on West side of Fort. There is a court between the first two gates. Inner gates are decorated with beautiful carving and Lord Ganesh idol is also carved on the gate. you can see Persian script on the outer gate (Gate to enter inside fort from the west side) which says Gate was built in the reign of Ibrahim Adil Shah I by Malik Daud Aki son of Minister Ahmed in 954 as per Islamic calendar (1534 CE)

Teen Darwaza

             Our next destination was Ambarkhan. It consists of three buildings (Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati) which were used to store grains. Ganga Kothi (Storage building) is the largest building amongst the three. There is one temple dedicated to lord Shambu Mahadev. When Sambhaji Maharaj successfully returned to Panhala fort from the Dilerkhan's trap then Shivaji Maharaj came to Panhala to meet his son Sambhaji Maharaj. This was the last epic visit (Dec 1679) of Father-Son (Two great King of Maratemperorror) before Shivaji Maharaj's death (3 April 1680).

Ambarkhana at Panhala
Ambarkhana

Ambarkhana
Ambarkhana

Shambu Mahadev Temple

              After Ambrkhana visit, we went to Pusati Bastion and Rajdindi route. Rajdindi route was the route by which Shivaji Maharaj escape to Vishalgad during the battle of Pawankhind. You can climb down from this route and it is a popular Panhala-Vishalgad trek route.

Pusati Bastion

Raj Dindi route

             Our next place to visit was Sajja Kothi. It was built by Ibrahim Adil Shah in 1500 and the main purpose is to keep a close watch on the valley. Sambhaji Maharaj was house arrest for sometime in Sajja Kothi. The place is not maintained well. After a quick visit, we took Darshan of Goddess Ambabai of Panhala fort. Ambabai is the oldest temple from the fort and Shivaji Maharaj used to visit before any major expedition. Tarabai Palace was closed hence we were unable to visit the place.

Sajja Kothi
Sajja Kothi

             We left Panhala fort and headed towards Amba Ghat. We booked Room in Kasturi farmhouse which is 4-5km before Amba Village. When we reached Near Amba village, Monsoon clouds took control of sky and it tempts us to visit Amba Ghat to enjoy the monsoon moods rather than a hotel check-in. We settle down at one of the valley viewpoints and enjoyed the rain shower over Valley. To our surprise, there was hardly any traffic in the ghat (Generally it is quite a busy route to enter in South Konkan) section. Heavy rainfall in the valley, different shades of grey color in the sky trying to suppress the variation of green in the valley, Sunlight on the horizon keeping everyone's hope alive and windy cool breeze adding more drama made our evening more special. The nature stage was perfectly set for two nature lovers.

Amba Ghat
Amba Ghat

             We came to the hotel "Kasturi farmhouse" after 7PM. They have species room attached with a small kitchen and bathroom. Rooms are clean and all the required facilities are available. There is a huge plantation behind the farmhouse. They have built up walkways to explore their plantation area as well.

Expenses:
  • Gavran Misal: ₹40/- per plate.
  • Panhala fort entry: ₹20/- for 2 person
  • Panhala Fort car parking: ₹20/-
  • Dinner: ₹372/- (Starter, Egg Masala, Rice, Curd Rice and Lemon Soda)
  • Stay at Kasturi farm house: ₹2000/-
17 June 2018: Pawankhind - Pune
            We woke up by 6.30AM and left for Pawankhind. It was around 22-24km from the hotel. On the way to Pawankhind, you can visit Manoli Lake and waterfall. As it was a start of the monsoon, Waterfall was not active. We move ahead and route from the forest is very scenic. We Took multiple pitstop to enjoy the forest view or valley view. We reached Pawankhind by 9AM.

Way to Pawankhind
Way to Pawankhind

               Ghod-khind was the actual name of Khind (Mountain Pass). Battle of Pawankhind was between Baji Prabhu Deshpande from Maratha Empire vs Siddi Jauhar from Bijapur Empire. Shivaji Maharaj escaped successfully from Panhala fort along with 600 warriors on a dark night of 13 July. Warrior Shiva Kashid dressed like Shivaji Maharaj and misguided the enemy. It gave time for Maharaj and 600 warriors to escape towards Vishalgad. In pursuit, Adilshah sends 10,000 armies for the chase. After crossing Pandharpani plateau, it was clear that Maharaj cannot reach Vishalgad without a battle. Trusted commander Baji Prabhu Deshpande decided to Battle with just 300 warriors against an army of 10,000. Ghodkhind (Now Pawankhind) was the perfect place as only a few soldiers can pass at a time. Baji Prabhu Deshpande assured that he will fight till Shivaji Maharaj reach to the Vishalgad.

Newly built Bastion at Pawankhind

Pawankhind

              Great 300 warriors took place in the Ghodkhind. Baji Prabhu Deshpande with two swords in hand took lead. Heavy Battled began and Baji Prabhu was wounded in it. He was still leading the battle. Adhishah's army repeatedly tried to break the defense but failed. Battle continued for 4-5 hours with strong defense till they heard Cannon fire from Vishalgad which was the announcement of Shivaji's return to Vishalgad. Around 200+ out of 300 great warriors died in the battle from Maratha whereas more than 1500 adhishah's soldiers killed in the battle. Baji Prabhu Deshpande sacrifices his blood to protect his King and died in the Ghodkhind after cannon fire announcement from Vishalgad. The defense of the pass of GhodKhind by about 300 Marathas led by the Baji Prabhu Deshpande was renamed as "PawanKhind” which means “The Battle of the Sacred Pass”. In Marathi, Pawankhind name described as "बाजीप्रभूच्या रक्ताने पावन झालेली खिंड म्हणजे पावनखिंड".

Pawankhind memorial
Pawankhind memorial

              Adhishah returned from Pawankhind after a heavy loss. Shivaji Maharaj later visited Baji Prabhu's house and honored his family. You can visit the newly built memorial. From the memorial, steps go to Pawankhind. There is a narrow path to climb down in the Pawankhind. you can witness waterfall in the monsoon season. We spend some time in the Pass and then return back. Panhala to pawankhind 52km trek is famous in the monsoon.

Waterfall at Pawankhind
Waterfall at Pawankhind

Waterfall at Pawankhind
Waterfall at Pawankhind

            We had lunch in Amba village and left the place for Pune. We returned Pune via Malkapur and reached home by 9PM.

Expenses:
  • Coffee at Pawankhind: ₹40/- for 2 person
  • Lunch: ₹325/- (veg and Non-Veg meal)
  • Toll 2: ₹70/-
  • Toll 3: ₹60/-
  • Toll 4: ₹85/-
Contact Numbers for reference:
  • Gavran Misal: +917776951555
  • KaFarmhouse house: +919422513797
  • Sanjay Dhumak, Pawankhind (Tea-Coffee, Lunch arrangement): +919404429829

Travel Time

Thanks for reading this Travel Blog. I will try to upload more and more travel blogs.

Pritesh Kulkarni
Pune