पुणे - गणपतीपुळे - रत्नागिरी: अविस्मरणीय सोलो सायकलिंग प्रवास

२०२३ डिसेंबरमध्ये एकट्याने अष्टविनायक सायकलवर पूर्ण केले व त्यानंतर मला सायकलवर गणपतीपुळेच्या गणेशाच्या दर्शनाची ओढ लागली होती. २०२४ डिसेंबरचा मुहूर्त ठरला. पुण्यापासून रत्नागिरीपर्यंतचा हा 4 दिवसांचा सोलो सायकलिंग प्रवास माझ्या आयुष्यातील एक खास अनुभव ठरला. सह्याद्रीच्या डोंगररांगा, निसर्गरम्य घाटवाटा, समुद्रकिनारे, आणि महाराष्ट्राच्या ग्रामीण भागातील साधेपणाने मन भारावून गेले. सायकलिंग हा स्वतःशी संवाद साधण्याचा आणि निसर्गाशी एकरूप होण्याचा मार्ग आहे.

पहिला दिवस: पुणे ते लाटवण (१५८ किमी)

पहिल्या दिवशी प्रवासाची सुरुवात पुण्याहून पहाटे ६ वाजता झाली. सकाळच्या थंडगार वातावरणात सायकलिंगला सुरुवात करताना मनात एक प्रकारचा उत्साह होता. हलके चढ उतार असले तरी सकाळच्या थंडीत अंतर वेगाने कापले जात होते. ताम्हिणी घाट ओलांडताना धुक्याने झाकलेले रस्ते आणि आजूबाजूचा निसर्ग एखाद्या पोस्टकार्डसारखा वाटत होता. रस्त्याने झऱ्यांचा आवाज, पक्ष्यांचे किलबिल, आणि समोर येणारे उंच डोंगर मनाला एक वेगळाच आनंद देत होते. ताम्हिणीच्या चढ-उतारांनी शरीराची चांगलीच परीक्षा घेतली, पण या सौंदर्याने थकवा कमी झाला.

At Tamhini

ताम्हिणी उतार सुरु होण्याआधी एका ठिकाणी नाश्ता व कॉफी घेऊन मग ताम्हिणी उतरलो. पुढील सरळ रस्ता सहज पार करून माणगावला १२ वाजता जेवण केले. आता थंडी जाऊन ऊन जाणवू लागले होते. माणगाव ते महाड हे ३०km चे अंतर जरी सुंदर व प्रशस्थ अश्या मुंबई-गोवा महामार्गवर असले तरी उन्हाचा सामना करताना अंतर अधीक वाटत होते. महाडच्या आधी मुंबई BRM (म्हणजे लांब पल्ल्याची सायकलिंग ज्याला 200, 300, 400, 600 आणि 1000 किमीच्या राईड्ससह Brevets de Randonneurs Mondiaux (BRMs) म्हणतात. सायकल चालवण्याची ही शैली अ-स्पर्धात्मक आहे आणि प्रत्येक अंतराकरता वेळ दिली जाते ज्याच्या आत ते पूर्ण करणे बंधनकारक असते) चे प्रमुख अनिल उचिल भेटले. मी मुंबई मध्ये २०१७ ते २०१९ दरम्यान अनेक सायकल BRM Ride/race केल्याने ओळख होती. जरा वेळ गप्पा झाल्यावर मग मी पुढे मार्गस्थ झालो.

महाडला पोहोचल्यावर थोडासा विश्रांतीचा वेळ घेतला आणि पुढे प्रवास सुरू ठेवला. रस्त्यावर ग्रामीण भागातील गावं, त्यांच्या साध्या पण आत्मीयतेने भरलेल्या जीवनशैलीचं निरीक्षण करत सायकल चालवत होतो. दुपारनंतर प्रवास आणखी खडतर झाला, पण लाटवणजवळ पोहोचताच डोंगरांच्या मागे लपणारा सूर्य आणि थंड वारा यामुळे दिवसभराचा थकवा विसरायला झालं. आजचा मुक्काम लाटवणं अलीकडे घाट माथ्यावर असलेल्या निवांत नावाच्या हॉटेल मध्ये होता पण त्याआधी लाटवणंचा खडे चढण असलेला घाट पार करायचा होता. मुळात १५० km सायकल चालवून झाल्याने हा घाट अजूनच अवघड वाटू लागला. मजल दरमजल करत घाट संपवला व हॉटेलला check-In केले. एकदम साधे हॉटेल पण प्रशस्त कॉटेज रूम आणि शांतता मला पुरेशी होती. लांब पल्ल्याच्या सायकल प्रवासात गरम पाण्याने अंघोळ व कपडे धुणे हे न चुकणारी काम पार पडून साधे जेवण केले. उद्याच्या प्रवासाची तयारी करून 10 ला झोपलो.

Cycling at Latvan Ghat

दुसरा दिवस: लाटवण ते गुहागर (८७ किमी):

सकाळी ६:३० वाजता लाटवणहून सुरुवात केली. सुरुवातीचे काही किलोमीटर चढण होते, पण सकाळच्या थंडगार वातावरणात पायाला दम जाणवला नाही. पहाटेच्या प्रकाशात डोंगरमाथ्यावरून दिसणाऱ्या सूर्याला नमस्कार करून प्रवासाला सुरुवात केली. लाटवणहून दापोलीकडे जाताना रस्त्याने लहान-मोठी खेडी, हिरवीगार शेती, आणि डोंगरदऱ्या दिसत होत्या. लाटवणहून साधारण ३३ किमी अंतरावर दापोली हा पहिला मोठा थांबा होता. येथे एका छोट्याशा हॉटेलमध्ये (आहार हॉटेल) उपमा आणि गरम कॉफी घेतली. दापोलीतील थोडक्याच विश्रांतीनंतर दाभोळ जेट्टीकडे प्रवास सुरू केला. सतत येणारे डोगरदऱ्यातील चढ भयानक दमवत होते पण शेवटी कोकण म्हणाले की आपसूक डोंगरातील घाट रस्ते आलेच. दाभोळ जेट्टीच्या अलीकडे प्रथमच समुद्राचे दर्शन झाले.

Sunrise from Latvan Ghat

Towards Dabhol Jetty

जेट्टीला पोहोचलो व काही वेळातच फेरी मिळाली. दाभोळच्या फेरीचा अनुभव हा प्रवासाचा एक खास भाग होता. सायकलसह जेट्टीतून प्रवास करताना समुद्राच्या लाटांचा आवाज आणि आसपासची शांतता मनावर छाप पाडणारी होती. पुढे धोपवे ते गुहागर अंतर १७km होते. ४ पर्यंत पोहचल्यावर प्रथम दुपारचे जेवण केले व घरगुती राहण्याची जागा शोधली. लवकर फ्रेश होऊन मग वाडीमधून समुद्रकिनारा गाठला.

Dobhol Jetty

Towards Guhagar

गुहागरचा समुद्रकिनारा हा गावाचं मुख्य आकर्षण आहे. पांढऱ्या वाळूचा स्वच्छ किनारा, नारळाच्या झाडांची रांग, आणि समुद्राच्या लाटा यामुळे इथं आल्हाददायक वातावरण आहे. सायंकाळच्या वेळी सूर्यास्त पाहणं हा इथला खास अनुभव असतो. समुद्रकिनाऱ्यावर चालताना जाणवणारा गार वारा आणि लाटांचा नाद तुम्हाला ताजेतवाने करून जातो. गुहागर समुद्रकिनाऱ्यावर पोहोचल्यानंतर संध्याकाळी सूर्यास्त पाहण्याचा अनुभव अप्रतिम होता. समुद्रकिनारी काही वेळ शांततेत सूर्याला निरोप देणं, हे खरंच वेगळं समाधान देणारं होतं.

Sunset from Guhagar

रात्री जोग आजीची खानावळला जाऊन पोटभर चविष्ट कोकणी पद्धतीचं जेवण केले. दिवसभरच्या अथक श्रमानंतर मस्त गरम घरगुती जेवणाने शांत झोप लागली.

तिसरा दिवस: गुहागर - वेळणेश्वर - हेदवी - गणपतीपुळे (७० किमी):

तिसऱ्या दिवशीचा प्रवास जरा चढ-उतारांनी भरलेला होता, पण निसर्गाची साथ होतीच. सकाळी ६:३० ला सायकलला पायडल मारले. एवढ्या सकाळी कोणतेच दुकान उघडले नसल्याने सोबत आणलेले ड्राय फ्रुट खाल्ले. वाटेत उर्फाटा गणपती मंदिरात जाऊन गणपतीचे दर्शन घेतले. हे गणपती मंदिर अगदी समुद्रकिनाऱ्यालगत वसलेलं असून, उर्फाटा गणपतीला समुद्राच्या लाटांपासून गावाचं रक्षण करणारा देव मानलं जातं. या मंदिराचा इतिहास शेकडो वर्षांपूर्वीचा असून, स्थानिक लोकांमध्ये गणपतीच्या चमत्कारीक शक्तींबद्दल अनेक कथा सांगितल्या जातात. असं मानलं जातं की, वादळ आणि पुराच्या संकटांमध्ये उर्फाटा गणपतीने गावाचं रक्षण केलं आहे.

Guhagar Beach

पुढे श्री व्याडेश्वर मंदिरात दर्शनाला गेलो. गुहागरचं श्री व्याडेश्वर मंदिर हे गावातील सर्वात पुरातन आणि महत्त्वाचं धार्मिक स्थळ आहे. या मंदिराला शिवमंदिराचा दर्जा असून, हे भगवान शिवचं स्थान मानलं जातं. असं मानलं जातं की या ठिकाणी प्राचीन काळात ऋषी व्याड यांनी तपस्या केली होती, आणि त्यांच्याच नावावरून या मंदिराला व्याडेश्वर हे नाव पडलं. श्री व्याडेश्वर मंदिराचं स्थापत्य पारंपरिक कोकणी शैलीत बांधलेलं आहे. मंदिराच्या गाभाऱ्यात भगवान शिवाची पिंडी आहे, ज्याभोवती नक्षीदार कोरीवकाम केलं आहे. मंदिराचं छत आणि भिंतींवर प्राचीन काळातील धार्मिक प्रसंगांचे सुंदर कोरीवकाम दिसून येतं. मंदिराचा मुख्य सभामंडप प्रशस्त असून, तिथे भक्तांना बसून ध्यान आणि पूजा करता येते. दीपमाळा, म्हणजेच दगडात कोरलेला दीपस्तंभ, हा मंदिराच्या आवारातील एक महत्त्वाचा भाग आहे.

Somewhere in Kokan

पुढे गुहागरजवळील घाट चढून पालशेत कडे निघालो. पालशेत हे कोकणातील एक निसर्गरम्य गाव असून इथले श्री दत्त मंदिर अत्यंत पुरातन मानले जाते. या मंदिराची स्थापना साधारणतः १७व्या शतकात झाल्याचे सांगितले जाते. दत्तात्रेय हे त्रिमूर्तींचे रूप असून, ब्रह्मा, विष्णू, आणि महेश या तीन देवतांचे गुण त्यांच्यात सामावलेले आहेत. मंदिराच्या परिसरात प्राचीन वटवृक्ष आहे, जो धार्मिक आणि ऐतिहासिक महत्त्व राखतो. मंदिर परिसरात वार्षिक दत्त जयंती उत्सव साजरा होतो. मी पोहचलो तेव्हा मंदिरात दत्त जयंती उत्सवनिमित्त १०२ वर्ष गारायण सप्ताह चालू होता. १९२०-१९२२ दरम्यान कोकणात आलेल्या भयानक प्लेग साथीमुळे पालशेत गावातील लोकांनी दत्तला गारायण केले की कोणी गावात दगावू नये व विघ्न आले नाही तेव्हा पासून दर वर्षी दत्त जयंतीला ७ दिवस २४ तास नामसप्ताह चालू राहतो. गावात कॉफी करता थांबलो होतो तेव्हा गावातील लोकांनी आग्रहाने मंदिरात दर्शनाला आमंत्रण केले. या आधी पण मी या मंदिराला भेट दिली आहे पण आताच वातावरणच निराळे होते.

Palshet Datta Temple

दर्शन घेऊन पुढे मार्गस्थ झालो. जरा वाट सोडून मी वेळेनेश्वरच्या शिव मंदिरात गेलो. डोगरावरून एकदम समुद्रसपाटीला छान उतार मिळाला पण परतीच्या वेळेस हा भयाण चढ पोटात गोळा आणणार होता. श्री वेळणेश्वर मंदिर हे कोकणातील एक सुप्रसिद्ध शिवमंदिर आहे. या मंदिराचा इतिहास १००० वर्षांहून अधिक जुना आहे. असे मानले जाते की, यादव राजवटीच्या काळात या मंदिराचा विस्तार करण्यात आला होता. वेळणेश्वर नावाचा अर्थच “वेळाचा ईश्वर” असा होतो, ज्याचा अर्थ आहे की भगवान शंकर हे वेळेचे अधिपती आहेत. वेळणेश्वर मंदिर पारंपरिक कोकणी शैलीत बांधलेले असून, मंदिराचा गाभारा भव्य आणि शांत आहे. छतावर आणि भिंतींवर कोरलेली नक्षी ही यादवकाळातील कोरीव कामाचे उदाहरण आहे. मंदिराच्या मुख्य मंडपात एक मोठा नंदीमहाराजाची मूर्ती आहे, जी काळ्या पाषाणात कोरलेली आहे. मंदिराच्या भोवती प्रशस्त सभामंडप आहे, जिथे भक्त पूजा आणि ध्यानासाठी बसतात. मंदिराच्या प्रांगणात एक मोठा दीपस्तंभ आहे, जो रात्रीच्या वेळी प्रज्वलित होतो. हे दृश्य अत्यंत भव्य आणि दिव्य वाटते. इथला समुद्रकिनारा सुंदर आहे पण चढत ऊन पाहून मी लांबून दर्शन घेतले व पोटभर नाश्ता करून निघालो. अंगावर येणार चढ चढून मग पुढे तवसाळ जेट्टीकडे निघालो.

At Velaneshwar Temple

वाटेत हेदवीला गणेश मंदिर आहे तिथे दर्शनकारात थांबलो. या मंदिराला दशभुजा गणेश मंदिर म्हणतात. मंदिराचा इतिहास साधारणतः १६व्या शतकात पोर्तुगीज आक्रमणांच्या काळात आहे. असे मानले जाते की, या गणपतीची मूर्ती एका साधूने शोधून भक्तांसाठी स्थापन केली. हेदवीचे गणेश मंदिर दशभुजा (दहा हात असलेल्या) गणपतीसाठी प्रसिद्ध आहे. ही मूर्ती एकाच काळ्या पाषाणात कोरलेली असून, तिचा आकार साधारणतः तीन फूट उंच आहे. मूर्तीवर दिसणारे दहा हात हे गणपतीच्या विविध शक्तींचे प्रतीक आहेत. मंदिराची वास्तुकला साधी आणि आकर्षक आहे. गाभाऱ्यातील शांतता भक्तांच्या मनाला प्रसन्नता देते. मंदिराचा सभामंडप लाकडाचा असून, त्यावर कोरलेले नक्षीकाम अप्रतिम आहे.

Jaigad Jetty

यानंतर मग मी जेट्टी गाठली. पुढील बोट तासाने असल्याने छान विश्रांती मिळाली. इथे येणाऱ्या प्रत्येक पर्यटकांनी माझ्याशी गप्पा मारत माझ्या या प्रवासाबद्दल चौकशी केली व एकटा सायकल प्रवास करतो म्हणून कौतुक केले. फेरीबोट आल्यावर पलीकडे जयगड जेट्टीला पोहोचलो. खाडीतून वाहणारी गार हवा व अथांग समुद्र मन प्रसन्न करते. जयगड जेट्टीपासून पुढील रस्ता खूपच सुंदर होता. रस्त्यावरून दिसणारे नारळाच्या झाडांचे ताटवे, समुद्राचे दर्शन, आणि हिरव्या डोंगररांगा यामुळे सायकलिंग अधिक रोमांचक वाटत होतं. जेट्टी ओलांडल्यानंतर गणपतीपुळेच्या दिशेने वाटचाल सुरू झाली. गणपतीपुळे पोहोचल्यानंतर श्री गणपतीच्या दर्शनाने मन शांत झालं. या ठिकाणी असलेली भक्तीमय आणि प्रसन्न वातावरण मनाला वेगळाच अनुभव देतं. मनातली इच्छा पूर्ण झाली. पुजार्यांनी पण सायकलवर इथपर्यंत आलो म्हणून कौतुक केले.

Solo cycling - Ganapatipule Temple

पुढे जरा वेळ समुद्रकिनाऱ्यावर बसून वेळ घालवला. थोडी पेटपूजा करून मग हॉटेल शोधले व फ्रेश झालो. रात्री मार्केट परिसरात चक्कर मारून जेवण केले व वेळेत झोपलो. खऱ्या अर्थाने माझी सायकलवारी पूर्ण झाली होती तर उद्या रत्नागिरीमार्ग पावस, गणेशगुळे व रत्नागिरीला पोहचायचे होते.

चौथा दिवस: गणपतीपुळे ते रत्नागिरी (७५ किमी): 

प्रवासाच्या शेवटच्या दिवशी गणपतीपुळ्याहून रत्नागिरीच्या दिशेने प्रस्थान केलं. या दिवशीचा रस्ता एकदम वेगळ्या प्रकारचा होता – समुद्राच्या अगदी जवळून जाणारा. वाटेत लागणाऱ्या छोट्या गावांमधील लोकांचे साधेपण आणि आपुलकीने भरलेल्या संवादाने प्रवास अधिक सुखकर झाला. गणपतीपुळेपासून केवळ ३ किमी अंतरावर असलेला भंडारपुळे बीच हा कोकणातील एक अप्रतिम किनारा. सायकलने भंडारपुळे किनाऱ्यापर्यंत जाणं हा एक सुखद अनुभव आहे. डोंगरातून जाणारा रस्ता आणि समुद्राचं मधून मधून डोकावणारं दृश्य यामुळे प्रवास अधिक रोमांचक होता.

At Malgund

Aare-Ware Beach

भंडारपुळे पार केल्यानंतर साधारण ८ किमी अंतरावर आरे आणि वारे हे जुळे किनारे आले. हे किनारे त्यांच्या निसर्गरम्य सौंदर्यासाठी प्रसिद्ध आहेत. आरे-वेरे किनाऱ्यापर्यंत पोहोचण्यासाठी वळणदार रस्ता आणि समुद्राचं नयनरम्य दृश्य अनुभवायला मिळतं. सायकल चालवताना या भागातला गारवा आणि समोर दिसणाऱ्या समुद्राच्या निळ्या छटा मन मोहून टाकतात. आरे-वारे मधील समुद्रालगत असलेला रस्ता तर सर्वांनाच भुरळ पाडतात.

Scenic costal route at Aare-ware Beach

 

Ware Beach

तिथल्या एका खाण्याच्या टपरीवर अथांग समुद्र पाहत नाश्ता व कॉफी घेतली. स्थानिक व तिथे आलेल्या पर्यटकांशी गप्पा मारून पुढे निघालो. काही अंतर पार करून मग रत्नगिरीमध्ये प्रवेश केला. रत्नागिरी शहराच्या हृदयस्थानी वसलेलं पतित पावन मंदिरात गेलो. हे केवळ धार्मिकच नाही, तर ऐतिहासिकदृष्ट्याही खूप महत्त्वाचं ठिकाण आहे. या मंदिराचा उद्देश अस्पृश्यता निर्मूलन आणि समाजातील प्रत्येकाला एकत्र आणणं असा होता. मंदिराचं बांधकाम साधं, पण त्यातील शांतता आणि श्रद्धेचा भाव भावतो. मंदिराचा परिसर स्वच्छ आणि शांत आहे, जे एक मानसिक समाधान देते. वीर सावरकरांनी या मंदिराला विशेष महत्त्व दिलं होतं, म्हणूनच इथं त्यांच्या स्मृतींना उजाळा दिलाय तर छोटे पण सुंदर असे प्रदर्शन आहे ज्यात आपल्या महान क्रांतिकारकांची माहिती तर सावरकरांच्या काही वस्तू पाहायला मिळतात. मंदिरात दर्शन घेऊन सायकल प्रवासाला सुरूवात करणं म्हणजे मानसिक उर्जेचा साठा घेऊन पुढं निघणं.

Patit Pavan Temple, Ratnagiri

रत्नागिरीपासून पावसपर्यंतचा १६ किमीचा रस्ता हा सायकलसाठी परिपूर्ण आहे. डोंगर-दऱ्यांचा सोबतीने, नारळ आणि सुपारीच्या झाडांनी व्यापलेला हा रस्ता अत्यंत मनमोहक आहे. दुपारी १:३० च्या सुमारास पावस गाठले. पावस हे गाव मुख्यतः स्वामी स्वरूपानंद यांच्या आश्रमामुळे प्रसिद्ध आहे. हे गाव निसर्गसंपन्न असून, इथलं शांत वातावरण एक वेगळाच अनुभव देतं. स्वामी स्वरूपानंद हे आधुनिक काळातील प्रसिद्ध संत होते. त्यांच्या शिकवणींनी आणि आध्यात्मिक विचारांनी अनेक लोकांना प्रेरणा दिली आहे. त्यांचा आश्रम हे एका प्रकारचं ध्यानकेंद्र आहे. स्वामी स्वरूपानंद यांचं साहित्य, त्यांच्या शिकवणींवर आधारित ग्रंथ, आणि इतर आध्यात्मिक पुस्तकं इथं वाचायला मिळतात. जेवणाची वेळ असल्याने प्रसाद म्हणून मिळणारी खिचडी खाऊन मग बाहेर पडलो.

At Pawas Temple

गणेशगुळे हे माझ्या आवडत्या ठिकाणांपैकी एक जागा. मला गणेशगुळेच्या गणेश मंदिर व त्याच्या आसपासचा परिसर , शांतात खूप भावतो. या मंदिराच्या गाभाऱ्यात श्रीगणेशाची मूर्ती नसून मध्यभागी असलेल्या ६ फूट उंचीच्या भल्यामोठ्या शिळेस स्वयंभू गणपती असल्याचे मानले जाते. फार पूर्वी गणपतीच्या नाभीतून अर्थात या स्वयंभू शिळेमधून पाण्याची संततधार वाहत असे. काही नैसर्गिक कारणांनी एके दिवशी हे पाणी अचानक बंद झाले. तेव्हापासून देवाने गणेशगुळ्याहून गणपतीपुळ्याला स्थलांतर केले अशी आख्यायिका प्रचलित झाली. उंचावर असलेल्या मंदिराच्या समोरच्या भागात खोल दरी आणि हिरव्यागार वनसंपदेने नटलेले सौंदर्य नजरेत भरते.

Ganeshgule Ganesh Temple

मंदिराजवळ, कथित पांडव काळातील एक प्राचीन ७० फूट खोल विहीर आहे. बऱ्यापैकी खोल आहे पण तळापर्यंत जाण्यासाठी पायऱ्या आहेत. दर्शन व विश्रांती नंतर मग रत्नगिरीकडे सायकलिंग चालू केले. वाटेत भाट्ये बीच वर जरा वेळ थांबलो आणि रत्नगिरीत पोहोचलो. शेवटी रत्नागिरीत पोहोचल्यावर त्या क्षणी मनात समाधान होतं – चार दिवसांचा प्रवास, निसर्गाचा आणि स्वतःचा शोध, आणि एक नवीन अनुभव घेऊन मी घरी परतणार होतो. माझ्या सासरच्या नात्यातल्यानकडे जाऊन फ्रेश झालो व त्यांनी छान केलेल्या घरगुती जेवणाचा आस्वाद घेतला. रत्नागिरीहून पुण्याला परतीचा प्रवास स्लीपर बसने केला. सायकल सुरक्षित ठेवण्यासाठी योग्य उपाययोजना करून आरामात प्रवास केला. प्रवास संपला असला, तरी मन मात्र अजूनही त्या रमणीय ठिकाणी अडकून पडलं होतं.

At Lokmanya Tilak Birthplace... End of 4 days Solo Cycling Tour

माझ्यासाठी हा प्रवास फक्त एक आठवण नाही, तर प्रेरणा देणारा अनुभव ठरला आहे.

At Palshet

Ganapati Bappa Moraya

प्रितेश कुलकर्णी 

Hidden Gems of Konkan - Ganeshgule, Kasheli and unexplored area near Mervi

 The year 2020 was a covid-19 year. Everything was new for everyone and as covid cases go down, we all started with new normal life. Travelling and exploring new places is my passion. Considering the situation, we decided to arrange a small trip for relaxation and explore some untouched Konkan beaches. My first priority was to visit Ganeshgule as my friend owns a beautiful hotel and the place is always less crowded. Our (Me and Wife Renuka) close friend Himanshu-Ketki and their daughter, Ameya, Ashutosh-Sanjana, and their kids were co-travellers. Another couple Tushar-Neha joined us there as coincidently they were on their Ratnagiri trip.

Devghali Beach or Kasheli Beach

About Ganeshgule, Kasheli, and surrounding places:

             Ganeshgule, a village few kilometres ahead of Pawas offers you a beautiful untouched beach. Not much explored by tourists hence it offers a sandy beach with crystal clear water. Ganeshgule beach is a km-long beach blocked by mountains on both sides. It offers you peace of mind & freedom to stroll and bath in the blue waters whenever you feel.

Ratnagiri city is the nearest port city to Ganeshgule on the Arabian Sea coast. It is a main city from the Konkan region and famous for its Alphonso Mangoes, Birthplace of “Lokmanaya” Bal Gangadhar Tilak, prime leader of India’s freedom movement, and Shivaji’s Fort. There are many tourist points in the Ratnagiri district that are blessed with untouched and beautiful beaches.

Blog on Ratnagiri

The route to reach Ganeshgule from Pune is –

Take National Highway 48 (Old Number 4) – Drive till Karad city on the highway – Cross Karad and drive for a few km – after Karad, look for the first flyover on the highway – Do not take flyover route – Take right below the flyover – Drive on State highway – Malkapur – Amba – Sakharpa – Pali (Do not confuse with Pali from Ashtavinayak locations) – Drive towards the south for few km on NH – Take left after crossing Patergaon – Ganeshgule.

Alternate route is Pune – Amba ghat – Sakharpa – Ratnagiri – Pawas – Ganeshgule.

The total distance via this route is around 304km.

Other routes are Tahmini – Mangaon – Mumbai Goa national highway OR 

Pune – Umbraj – Koyanagar – Chiplun – Ratnagiri - Ganeshgule.

Day 1: 26 December 2020 - Pune to Ganeshgule

              We woke up early in the morning and left home at 6 AM with our friends. We wanted to avoid the highway traffic and enjoy the morning breeze. Before Khambatki Ghat, we took a pit stop for Wada-pav at Shriram hotel. We decided to go by the Amba ghat route. After crossing Karad, we took right from the Amba ghat route. We had our lunch in Hotel Kasturi which is close to Amba ghat. Considering the number of travellers, there were multiple pit stops and we finally reached Ganeshgule by 4:30ish in the evening. 

Ganeshgule Beach

             We reached Oceano Pearl home stay resort. The resort was a mixture of Konkani-modern style with a lot of greenery and with a huge farm of different trees (Wadi in Marathi) like Coconuts, Alphonso, and many more. They have AC rooms and one treehouse (Not in Function due to Covid and maintenance), close to the beach. Management and staff from the resort welcomed us with a smile. We booked 3 AC rooms which were cleaned with all required amenities. When we used to visit the Ganeshgule, there was not a single hotel but now there are a couple of more Homestay/hotels available

Oceano Pearl resort

              We took tea coffee and then went to the beach. Ganeshgule beach is around 1.5-2 km long beach and gives you a feel of a private beach. With white soft sand all over the beach, it was very neat and clean. Water was so clear that we were unable to stop ourselves from going into the water. It was a good evening to spend time with friends and their kids on the beach. We had our dinner in Oceano Pearl hotel before our day ends. Ashutosh and his family have stayed at the nearby homestay. 

Sunset from Ganeshgule Beach

Major Expenses:

• Car Fuel: INR4000/-
• Resort Stay: INR4000/- per Room per night for 3 people with breakfast
• Lunch at Kasturi restaurant, Amba Ghat: INR160 for Veg Thali and INR200 for chicken Thali
• Dinner: INR2700/- for 3 people with veg and seafood dishes.

Day 2: 27 December 2020 - Ganeshgule, Kasheli

               We woke up early morning and went to the beach. Ganeshgule has a long, scenic, unexplored beach. Only we were on the beach with only the sea waves for a company and it was like we were on our private beach. We spent around an hour on the beach. There is a Small Mountain on the right side of the beach. It takes hardly 20 min to reach the top of the hill. The location of the rocky plateau on the mountain makes this place a perfect location for peace where you can only hear sea waves. One wave after another was seen on the rocky area as if they were trying to climb the rock to meet us. The location is covered by sea from 3 sides and a beautiful sunset on the horizon. The view of the sea from here is breathtaking and this is the best place to witness the sun on the horizon spreading orange-red colour all over the sky. This is one of my favourite places from the Konkan coastal area.

Morning Time on Beach

               We came back to the hotel for breakfast. Today we planned to visit Kasheli. Kasheli is a coastal village in the Ratnagiri District of Maharashtra, with a secluded, unexplored Devghali beach with an amazing view. Kasheli village is especially known for Shri Kanakaditya Temple. Distance from Ganeshgule is around 22km whereas 40-42km from Ratnagiri. 

              You can visit the Purnagad fort which is on the bank of the River. We skipped this place as we all visited earlier. On the way, we took a pit stop at Gaonkhadi beach. Beach is untouched, very cleaned, and maintained by villagers. No tourists and food stall which makes this place very clean and beautiful. The small hill is just aside from the beach so if you want to have a look at the entire beach then a small hill climbing can fulfil your wish. 

Village near Gaonkhadi Beach

              We reached Kasheli and went to Temple. Sri Kanakaditya Temple is one of the few temples situated in Maharashtra that is dedicated to the Sun God. The idol from the temple is 800 years old and is made out of black stone. The temple is rustic with a big sabha-mandap of local architecture. There is a legend about the standing idol of Lord Sun in this Mandir, where a sailor from Saurashtra, carrying the idol of Lord Aditya in his boat, couldn’t sail beyond the sea waters of Kasheli. He had to leave the idol in a cave in the adjacent hills, wherefrom a lady devotee got messages about the idol’s location in her dreams and the villagers found the idol there.

Sri Kanakaditya Temple, Kasheli

              Our next spot was Devghali beach which is also popularly known as Kasheli beach. It is around 10-15 min away and you can reach the top of a mountain by car. There is no proper road built up till the parking point. You have to climb down to reach the beach. Beach is very small and nestled in between rocky shore. There is a small cave on one side of the Beach. There are proper steps laid to climb down. At the midpoint, the sunset viewpoint is built to enjoy the sunset. 

             Beach has soft sand, clean water, and a well-maintained area. Better to avoid swimming in the water due to rocky areas and sudden depth in water. Soaking in water is definitely gives you a refreshing feel. We spend around 30-40 min on the beach. you may feel tired while climbing steps to the top. 2 local shops offer you local drink and water.

Kasheli Beach or Devghali Beach

              We were hungry by the time we reach the top. We decided to stretch a bit and travel back to Pawas for lunch. We had our tasty lunch at the restaurant Aradhya. They serve tasty veg, non-veg, and seafood thali. After a delicious meal, we came back to the hotel. 

Seafood meal

              We spend the evening on the beach. Kids were enjoying the making of sandcastle and sea waves. we witness the beautiful sunset from the beach and came back to the hotel. Today's dinner was planned at the Atharva cottage where Ashutosh and their family were staying. The food was good in taste. After dinner, we went back to the hotel for a rest.

Sunset

Major Expenses: 

• Lunch at Aradhya: INR1575/- for 9 people (Veg meal INR100, Chicken meal INR120, egg meal INR100, Kingfish meal INR350, Pomfret fish meal INR450)
• Dinner at Atharva: Approx INR2500-3500/- for 9-10 people (veg and fish meal) along with Modak in Sweet

Day 3: 28 December 2020 - The unexplored area near Mervi 

              As part of our ritual, we woke up early and went to the beach for a morning walk. Post breakfast, We decided to explore the beach which is south of Mervi. Beach is not listed on google map and there is no road to reach the beach. We took Ameya's UV car which was a good option for off-roading. Our target was to explore 2 beaches, one on the north side of Mervi and another one on the south of Mervi. By the end of our exploration, we land upon exploring one beach whereas we spot the route for the second beach. (By the time my blog is published, someone tagged both beaches by the name Mervi which is not the case). I have shared a tentative GPS coordinate in case someone interested to visit. We Cross Jambhul aad village and then took right turn for Mervi Village. after a certain point, we left the road and started off-roading with XUV car. The entire area is a flat rocky plateau and then we climbed down to reach the beach. We saw an Indian wolf during our off-roading.

Untouched Beach

             We parked the car at a certain point and then climbed down the hill to reach the beach. There is no route/trail to climb down hence take proper care and mind your steps. Beach is small and rocky. Beach was flat and clean. There are plenty of rocky patches hence not recommended for swimming. It's not easily accessible for anyone. Kids are not recommended on this beach. As there is private property from where you can access this beach. Stepping down and again climbing up is not that easy for everyone. Indeed it was a wonderful treat for us to get this opportunity to visit this beach. You can take a walk on the north side of the beach to explore the next beach which looks like Om.

Unknown beach near Mervi

               After exploring this untouched beach, we travel back to Pawas for lunch. We had lunch at the restaurant Aradhya and did a quick visit to Pawas.  Pawas is well known for the Ashram of Swami Swaroopanand and is a few km from Ganeshgule village. Pawas is a prime spiritual place in the Ratnagiri district due to a very long stay of Swami (saint) Swaroopanand. He was born on 15th December 1903 at Pawas. At the age of 20, he had received the initiation (Diksha) from his Guru Sadguru Babamaharaj Vaidya from Pune. From this point, his journey in the spiritual world had begun. At the age of 70, on 15th August 1974, Swamiji took Samadhi (self-immolation) at Pawas. The temple in Pawas is very clean and well maintained.

            For evening time, we went to rocky hill from Ganeshgule beach. Watching the sunset from that point is a treat to the eye. After spending some time on the beach, We returned to the hotel and had dinner. It was a good relaxation break which we are looking for for a long time.

Sunset from Ganeshgule Beach

Major Expenses:

• Lunch at Aradhya: Approx. INR 1300/- for 5 people
• Dinner at Atharva: Approx INR1800/- for 8-9 people

Day 4: 29 December 2020 - Ganeshgule - Pune

           We left Ganeshgule via the Ratnagiri route by 11 AM. We took our small break at Ganeshgule temple. This temple is older than Ganpatipule. The Ganesh idol in the temple is the "Swayambhu" (i.e. formed naturally) idol with its trunk turned towards the west. The statue of the mouse in front of the temple is very beautiful and made up of metal alloy. You can see a beautiful valley view from the temple. There is an old ancient well opposite the temple. Local believes that Well was built in Pandava's era.

Ganeshgule Ganesh Temple

We travelled via Amba Ghat – National highway 4 and reached Pune safely by 10 PM

GPS locations:

• Oceano Pearl beach homestay, Ganeshgule - 16.870456, 73.294762
• Restaurant Aradhya: 16.875762, 73.323787
• Kasheli Beach: 16.726635, 73.310179
• North Mervi Beach : 

1. Off-Roading start point - 16.836203, 73.306283
2. Car parking spot - 16.839083, 73.294883 (Note, you need a good ground clearance car to reach this point)
3. Beach - 16.838442, 73.294181

Contact Numbers for your References:

• Oceano Pearl beach homestay at Ganeshgule: 02352-237800, 02352-219400, 8605599789, 9405340784
• Restaurant Aradhya: 9168522797

Thanks for reading this Travel Blog. Happy travelling.

Pritesh Kulkarni

Pune

Pune: Shinde Chhatri

We had a long break in the year 2019 due to some personal reasons and unable to plan any trips. I read one quote on the Internet that More you travel, More you learn. It’s was difficult for us to stop learning hence we decided to visit a few places from Pune. Being local, we had visited the place long back but it always good to visit again.

This short Blog is about Shinde Chhatri, a memorial to Military leader Mahadji Shinde from Maratha Empire under the Peshwas.

Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

About Shinde Chhatri Location:
It is located in Wanwadi area of Pune city. It is just 5.6km away from Swargate whereas 6.3km from Pune Railway station.
GPS Location: 18.491597,73.897307

Shinde Chhatri:
Shinde Chhatri is memorial to Military leader Mahadji Shinde from Maratha Empire under the Peshwas. He born on 3 December 1730 and he died on 12 February 1794 at age of 64. This memorial complex also had Shiva temple whereas Mahadji Shinde’s last rites were performed in the complex. In the year 1965, Samadhi was constructed outside Shiva Temple in the memory of Mahadji Shinde.

Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

               Mahadji Shinde was appointed in North India post-Third battle of Panipat. He recovered the loss post third battle of Panipat and became one of three pillars of Maratha Resurrection. He was the important leader during the First Anglo Maratha war between British and Maratha. British failed to win the war and forced to settle in the treaty of Salbai in 1782. He was a mediator between Peshwa and British. He also won Jodhpur and Jaipur through the battle of Patan and Merta. He helped Jats of Mathura during 1772-73 to destroy the power of Pashtun from Najibabad. His achievements over south were his victory over Nizam of Hyderabad and peace with Tipu Sultan of Mysore. He brought Maratha Glory over north post-Panipat war. 

Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

Vithal Rukhmini Temple at Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

            Mahadji Shinde died at Wanavdi near Pune on 12 February 1794. He described as Regent of Mughal affair and also Mughal gave him the title as Head of the Amir’s (Amir-IL-Umara).
           Coming back from History, the architecture of Shinde Chhatri is a combination of Anglo-Rajasthani style of construction. Temple’s structure is made up of Black stone. The chhatri Hall is a two-story building with beautiful carving and design on it. Windows panels are multi Color stained Glass which looks beautiful and allows light to fall inside in attractive hues. You can see a beautiful Rajasthani pattern over window panels. Interiors view of Shinde Chhatri is mind-blowing. Painting and carving on Pillars, ceiling are just amazing. You can see photographs/paintings of Shinde Dynasty on the Pillars. There is a spiral staircase to go in the roof which has a European touch.

Inner Hall of Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

Inner hall of Shinde Chhatri... Photo Credit: Renuka Kulkarni

            Shiva temple is just behind Shinde chhatri (Hall). Carved design is must watch at the base corner of Temple. The complex is also consist of the temple of Lord Vittala. Best time to visit the place is morning.
          Shinde Chhatri (Umbrella) consider as is a sign of respect to great warrior hence you need to close umbrellas inside the complex even if it’s a sunny day or Raining.
To view the entire complex in detail, you need 1-1.5 hours.

Expenses:

• Entry ticket: INR 5/- for Indian and INR25/- for Non-Indian.

I will try to upload more and more travel blogs. Thanks for reading this Travel Blog.

Pritesh Kulkarni

Pune

Korlai Fort, Chaul and Kashid, Konkan on weekend

We were looking for a quick weekend trip and decided to visit Korlai fort along with Kashid. We have visited Kashid and nearby beach multiple time so the focus was to explore Korlai. It was the Renuka's (Wife) first visit to Korlai.
Travelers for this trip were me and Renuka.

Sea View from Korlai Fort

About Kashid and Chaul
              Kashid is a beach town on Alibag-Murud road. It is popular mainly because of its white sand, curvy beach shape, mountains behind beach and beautiful sea view. Kashid has a 3 km stretch of beach tucked in between two rocky hillocks with Casuarinas groves all around the seashore. Few sea-facing resorts are under construction in kashid and lots of homestay accommodations are available.
             Kashid beach is generally crowded by Mumbai people on weekends so my advice is to visit this place on weekdays to enjoy this beautiful sandy beach.

Chaul is a former city of Portuguese India. It is known as one of the oldest Former city from Konkan region. There are 360 temples in Chaul. Korlai Fort in the town of Korlia. This fort was built in 1521 by the Portuguese with the permission of Burhan Nizam. Fort was used for keeping watch on River and on Chaul area.

Our Route:-
            Best way to reach Kashid/Chaul is Pune - National highway towards Mumbai- join Expressway - Lonavala - After crossing Lonavala-Khandala on Expressway, there is Khopoli exit - Take a left at Khopoli square for Pen - Pen - Alibag - Chaul - Kashid.

22 June 2019: Pune to Kashid via Chaul:
             We woke up by 5.30 AM and left home at 6:00 AM. We chose the route via Khopoli to reach Chaul. We reached in Chaul without taking a single break. We decided to visit a couple of ancient temples from Chaul as it is practically not possible to cover all the temples from Chaul. Our first destination was Rameshwar Mandir from Chaul. Temple is of Hemadpanthi style of architecture. Temple has been renovated various times in the past to make it attractive, however, the exact year when it was built is not known. Lord Shiva is the foremost deity in the temple. Temple has 3 Water tanks namely Parjanya (Rain) kund, Agni (Fire) kund, and wayu (Air) kund representing three elements of nature.

Rameshwaram Mandir

Shree Vakhanath Temple

              After a quick visit, we saw a couple of temples from Chaul. Most of the temples are now renovated but their style of architecture is ancient. We left Chaul and had our breakfast before reaching Kashid. we were not interested to stay near Kashid beach hence we prefer to stay a couple of KM before the beach. We checked a few hotels and checked-in in Hotel Coco In.

Ganesh Temple

Mukhari Ganapati Temple

             All the rooms from the hotel are sea-facing though the beach was rocky. Room was large in size and clean. This property is typically for family or people who want peace and relaxation time. We had our lunch in the hotel which I found tasty but a bit overpriced. We were expecting Monsoon Konkan trip but there was No sign of Rain at all. Rather than Monsoon, Sun was dominating in the sky.

Hotel Coco Inn

Veg Meal

             In the evening, We went to Rocky beach to witness Sunset. Monsoon clouds gathered on the horizon which skipped Sunset show. We had dinner in the hotel itself and enjoyed the India Vs Afganistan World cup cricket match. You can Visit Revdanda Beach and Fort which is near to Chaul. As we have visited that place multiple times so we prefer to stay in the Hotel for the evening. You can check my Blog on Revdanda and Phansad Forst here

Sunset

Expenses:

• Petrol: INR1500/-
• Expressway Toll Till Khopoili Exit: INR 138/-
• Breakfast near Kashid: INR100/- (Omlet Pav 40/- and Cold drink 20/-)
• Coco inn Hotel: INR3000/- for AC (INR4000 for AC and INR3000 for Non AC on weekends)
• A veg meal in Lunch: INR700/- (₹350/- per person)
• Water bottles: INR 125/- (5 bottled)
• Dinner: 400/- (1 Prowns Meal and Extra Rice)
• Kokam Surbat: INR45/- per Glass
• Cold drink: INR45/-
• Coconut water: INR 80/- for 2

23 June 2019: Korlai Fort - Pune:
               We woke by 7 AM and feel fresh as Monsoon clouds were entered in Konkan. Quickly we left for Korlai fort. We reached by 8AM and got to know that Fort entrance opened after 9AM. I was aware of another route to enter in the Fort from Northside and Security allow us to go from that route.

Fort Area

              Proper stone steps are laid from lighthouse till the top. It takes hardly 15-20 mins to reach the top. we approached the fort from Northside after Quick small trek. Northmost point of Fort has a storehouse of ammunition and place to park ships at that time. The Fort is mainly divided into 6 Parts. After Crossing 2 sections with some slow elevation, we reached the entrance which is connected via Stone steps.

Fort entrance

              Next section has Canons and Bastion. Entrance to the next section is in proper shape. You can see the small Shiva Temple and Shiv-Linga. There is a Water trench opposite to small temple but it is covered. In the Next Section, you can see the chapel and Portuguese inscriptions. There is another entrance on your left. Looking at the entrance construction, It should be the main entrance at that time to enter the Fort or Chapel.

Shiva Temple at Korlai Fort

Chapel on Korlai Fort

              There is a small entrance behind the chapel for the last section of the fort. You can see the 3-4 Cannons. All the cannons are mounted in wheel cart. Wheel carts are newly built and placed to keep heritage cannon on it. View from the Southmost point is breathtaking, You can see the sea on your left and Korlai village on your left. we spend some time to witness the beautiful view of Sea and Monsoon approach over the Arabian sea.

Behind Chapel

View from Korlai Fort

             Korlai was initially known as the “Rock of Chaul”. In 1594, there was a chaotic situation after Burhan Nizam died. The Portuguese tried to take advantage of this by building a fortification. But Hussein Nizam perceived the danger and decided to fortify this mountain himself. The Portuguese opposed this and they signed a treaty. It was decided that inseam would not build a fort and the Portuguese would not pose him any threat on the seas. Second Burhan Nizam succeeded in building a fort there. Sardar Fattekhan cannoned the walls of Revdanda fort soon. The Portuguese were short of soldiers and ordered more army. They then attacked the fort by invading the base village. They won the fight and captured Korlai fort. In 1684, Sambhaji Maharaj made an unsuccessful attempt to capture the fort. In 1739, Chimaji Appa (From Maratha emperor) made a strong attack on the fort and captured it.

Korlai Fort

             We came down quickly and left the fort. You can visit the Lighthouse By paying a nominal fee. Lighthouse engineer explains the functionality of lighthouse, Radar system and how the entire system communicates with the ships and the control room which is in Mumbai.

Cannon on Korlai

              We reached Hotel and had our breakfast. After some rest, we check-out from the hotel and started our return journey. We took a small stop to visit Birla Ganesh Temple. It is located in Revdanda-Murud Rd near Revdanda Bridge. The architecture is pretty good and well maintained. Camera and Mobiles are strictly not allowed in the temple area. No locker system available so better to keep in your vehicle.
              Our next destination was Nagaon. we went to Nagaon only for Lunch and we skipped Beach as it was overcrowded (as always). You can read my travel blog on Nagaon here. We had tasty Seafood meal at Mahesh restaurant near the beach. On the way to Alibag from Nagaon, there was one small temple. It is known as Nav-nag temple (Nine snake’s temple). Hardly any tourists visit this place. Local says that the Name of this village came because of this place. In the temple, you can see a total of 10 rocks having snake images on it. 9 were originally placed here and in recent time someone added 10th snake idol.

King Fish Meal

We left Nagaon after some Konkani Product shopping and came to Pune safely via Pen - Expressway.

Expenses:

• Korlai Fort parking: INR 20/-
• Korlai Fort entry: INR 40/- for 2 person
• Birla temple parking: INR 30/-
• Lunch: INR 365/- (Kingfish meal, and Extra 3 Roti - Meal shared by 2 people)
• Modak (sweet Dish): INR 40/- for 2
• Expressway Toll: INR 173/-

Contact Details:

• Hotel Coco Inn: +919167562668, +919167562468, +919969315657.
• Mahesh Lunch Home, Nagaon: +919764557050, +918390382222.

I will try to upload more and more travel blogs. Thanks for reading this Travel Blog.

PriteshKulkarni

Pune