Overnight Camping Trek to Raireshwar – A Weekend Under a Billion Stars

Some trips are all about reaching a destination, while others become unforgettable because of the people you travel with. Our overnight camping trek to Raireshwar was one such memorable weekend—a perfect blend of adventure, history, nature, friendship, and a magical night under the stars. With friends, enthusiastic kids, delicious local food, and a sky full of heavenly wonders, it turned into an experience we'll cherish for years.

Saturday, May 2026

              Unlike the usual early morning treks, we decided to keep this one leisurely. After finishing our Saturday lunch, everyone gathered and we began our drive towards the base village of Raireshwar. The excitement among the kids was contagious, especially because they knew camping and star gazing were on the agenda. By around 4:00 PM, we started the climb. Raireshwar is known for its relatively easy trek, making it ideal for families and children. The trail gradually ascends through lush greenery and rocky patches, offering beautiful views without being overly demanding. Conversations, laughter, and photography breaks made the climb even more enjoyable.

Within a short while, we reached the vast Raireshwar Plateau, where our camping area had been arranged. The cool breeze and open grasslands instantly made us forget the city rush. After settling into our tents, a few of us decided to make the most of the remaining daylight by visiting the historic Raireshwar Temple, while others stayed back at the campsite with the children. Raireshwar is not just another scenic plateau in the Sahyadri mountains—it occupies a special place in Maratha history.

The ancient stone temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is believed to date back several centuries. More importantly, Raireshwar is remembered as the place where, in 1645, a young Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, then only around sixteen years old, took the legendary oath of Hindavi Swarajya along with his trusted companions. Inside this temple, Shivaji Maharaj is said to have pledged to establish self-rule for the people, laying the foundation of what would later become the glorious Maratha Empire. Standing inside the peaceful temple, one cannot help but imagine that defining moment in history. The simplicity of the temple, surrounded by vast grasslands and mountains, makes the experience deeply moving.

We returned to the campsite just before darkness settled over the plateau.

              As daylight faded, the real highlight of our trip began. Our friend Himanshu, an avid astronomy enthusiast, took charge of the evening's star-gazing session. He had planned an engaging introduction to the night sky, making it equally enjoyable for adults and children. Adding to the excitement, our friend Ameya had carried a powerful telescope all the way to the campsite. Watching him carefully assemble the equipment immediately attracted a curious audience. Soon, the sky transformed into a magnificent celestial canvas.

Far away from city lights, Raireshwar offered relatively dark skies. One after another, bright stars began appearing, followed by familiar constellations. Himanshu explained fascinating stories from mythology, astronomy, and space exploration while helping everyone identify prominent stars and constellations.

             The telescope opened an entirely new world. The children were absolutely mesmerized. Looking through the telescope for the first time, many of them excitedly called others to witness distant objects. Their endless questions made the session even more interactive and enjoyable. Watching young minds discover the vastness of the universe was perhaps the most rewarding part of the evening.

            Meanwhile, dinner had been lovingly prepared by a local family from the nearby village. The menu was simple, homely, and exactly what trekkers need after an active evening. Freshly prepared local food, served with warmth and hospitality, tasted far better than any elaborate restaurant meal. Sitting together, sharing stories over dinner, made the experience even more memorable.

            After dinner, nobody wanted the night to end. The telescope once again became the center of attention. Conversations shifted from history to science, from mythology to galaxies. Every few minutes someone would discover another interesting object in the sky. As the night grew darker, the sky revealed one of its greatest spectacles—the faint glowing band of the Milky Way Galaxy stretching across the heavens.
One by one, families and children retired to their tents after an exciting day.

PC: Himanshu Kakade

 A small group of us stayed back a little longer, simply lying on the ground and soaking in the incredible view overhead. Witnessing our galaxy with the naked eye, away from urban light pollution, was a humbling reminder of how vast and beautiful the universe truly is. Only after enjoying this unforgettable sight did the last group finally head to sleep.

VC: Ameya Deshpande

Sunday, May 2026

              The next morning welcomed us with crisp mountain air, cool breezes, and complete silence broken only by chirping birds. After a refreshing breakfast, we set out on a short nature trail to witness one of Raireshwar's lesser-known attractions.
             A brief walk across the plateau led us to a fascinating natural phenomenon where seven distinct colors of soil can be observed within a relatively small area. The varying mineral composition creates beautiful shades ranging from reddish and brown to yellowish and grey tones, making it an interesting geological feature. The location is not only unique because of the colorful earth but also because it offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding Sahyadri ranges.
             Standing at this viewpoint, we could admire several nearby forts such as Sinhagad, Torna, Rajgad, Kenjalgad, Kamalgad and mountain ranges spread across the horizon, reminding us once again why the Western Ghats are every trekker's paradise.

             Before beginning our descent, everyone gathered for a visit to the historic Raireshwar Temple. Unlike the quieter previous evening, this visit allowed everyone—including the children—to experience the temple and learn about its historical significance. It was a wonderful opportunity to connect our adventure with the inspiring story of Shivaji Maharaj's vision of Swarajya.

             By around 11:00 AM, we packed our camping gear and started our descent. The return trek was comfortable and enjoyable, with everyone exchanging memories. Before heading home, we made a brief stop at the Samadhi of Jiva Mahale, the brave bodyguard of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. Remembered for saving Shivaji Maharaj during the famous encounter with Afzal Khan by defeating Sayyed Banda, Jiva Mahale remains a symbol of courage, loyalty, and selfless service. Paying our respects added another meaningful historical touch to the journey.
             We later stopped near Bhor for a satisfying lunch before continuing our drive home. By around 4:00 PM, we were back home tired but immensely happy.

              Although our overnight summer camping trek to Raireshwar had come to an end, it certainly didn't feel like a goodbye. Raireshwar is one of those rare places that transforms dramatically with every season. While summer gifted us crystal-clear skies, star-gazing opportunities, and camping on the plateau, the monsoon paints an entirely different picture.
             As the rains arrive, the plateau comes alive with lush green meadows, and a spectacular carpet of wildflowers. Numerous species bloom across the grasslands, turning the landscape into a vibrant natural garden that attracts nature lovers, photographers, and trekkers alike. The mist drifting over the plateau, the cool breeze, and the colorful blossoms create an experience that's completely different from what we witnessed during our summer visit.

Thank you for reading our travel story. Until our next adventure, happy travelling.

Pritesh Kulkarni

Pune

Summer Escape to Vengurla and Nivati – Six Days of Konkan Bliss

Some journeys are about ticking off famous attractions, some are packed with adventure, while a few are simply about slowing down, breathing in the sea breeze, and enjoying every moment without watching the clock. Our six-day summer holiday to Vengurla and the serene coastal village of Nivati belonged to the latter.
This trip was special for a very personal reason. Our daughter, Samaira, had just one wish for her summer vacation—she wanted to travel by flight. It would be her very first flying experience, and that single request became the inspiration behind our Konkan holiday. Instead of taking our usual road trip, we decided to make her dream come true by booking the Pune–Sindhudurg flight operated by Fly91.

Konkan has always been close to our hearts. This certainly wasn't our first journey to this beautiful coastline. Over the years, we have explored the southern Konkan region several times by car, travelling through the scenic stretches from Malvan to Redi, discovering hidden beaches, ancient temples, coastal villages, and countless unforgettable sunsets. However, this journey was different because it marked Samaira's first visit to the southernmost part of Konkan.

Although she has travelled extensively with us along the Konkan coast over the last two years—exploring beautiful destinations up to Ratnagiri—she had never ventured further south. This trip allowed her to experience a completely new side of Konkan, one that is quieter, less commercial, and wonderfully untouched.
Over the next few chapters, I'll share our complete six-day itinerary, hidden gems around Vengurla and Nivati, travel tips, food recommendations, and everything you need to plan your own slow-paced escape to one of Maharashtra's most beautiful coastal regions.

Day 1: 27th May 2026 – Pune - Nivati: First Flight, Sahyadri Views and a Relaxing Evening at Nivati

              Our Konkan holiday became exciting even before we boarded the flight. For our daughter, Samaira, this was her very first flight, and every moment at Pune Airport felt like a new adventure. Watching airplanes take off, boarding the aircraft, and finding her window seat filled her with excitement and curiosity.
              We flew with Fly91, which operates a small aircraft on this route. Surprisingly, the smaller aircraft made the journey even more enjoyable because it flies at a relatively lower altitude. As soon as we were in the air, the views outside the window were simply breathtaking.
The majestic Sahyadri mountain range stretched below us. We could clearly spot many famous forts like Sinhagad, Torna, Rajgad, Raireshwar, and Kamalgad. It was amazing to watch the landscape slowly change from rugged mountains to the lush green Konkan region. Soon, the beautiful coastline appeared, where long sandy beaches met the blue waters of the Arabian Sea.

Konkan costal view

Even before we landed, Konkan had already started impressing us, just as it always does. After landing at Sindhudurg Airport, we took an auto-rickshaw to Nivati and checked into Mangroves Hotel & Resort. Our Bamboo Cottage, complete with a private pool, was exactly what we had hoped for—peaceful, comfortable, and surrounded by nature.

ATR 72-600

This trip was all about relaxing rather than rushing from one attraction to another. So, we spent the afternoon enjoying the peaceful surroundings of the resort. Later, we rented a two-wheeler to explore the nearby places at our own pace.
In the evening, we visited the beautiful Nivati Beach. The beach was quiet, clean, and almost empty, making it the perfect place to relax. Gentle waves, soft sand, and a peaceful sunset made our first evening in Konkan truly special.

The beach is located near the entrance of Nivati, a traditional fishing village. If you want to enjoy a quieter part of the beach, take the left turn at the T-junction at the beginning of the village and ride about 600–700 metres. This area has only a couple of homestays, feels very peaceful, and is a safe place to spend time. The curved shoreline and the sunset disappearing behind the hills created a beautiful and calming view.

We visited at the end of May, when most fishing boats were anchored because the fishing season was ending. During other months, you can see colourful fishing activities along the shore. Like Bhogwe and Khavane beaches, Nivati also offers boating trips to the Nivati Lighthouse, water sports, and mangrove kayaking. Since our trip was focused on relaxation and these activities are limited near the end of May, we decided to skip them.

After enjoying the peaceful evening, we returned to the resort for a delicious local dinner. As the day ended, Samaira couldn't stop talking about her first flight—a memory that made the beginning of our Konkan holiday even more special.

Major Expenses: 

• Pune - Sindhudurg return flight: ₹17,090/- for 3 people
• 5 Night stay at Mangrove Home stay resport, Nivati: ₹17,500/- (Bamboo Cottage with Pool)
• Auto from Airport to Nivati: ₹500/-
• Two-wheeler on rent: ₹1750/- without fuel
• Fuel for 5 days: Approx ₹700-800/- 
• Veg lunch at hotel: ₹280/- for 2 person
• Dinner at hotel: ₹550/- (Prawn thali, Veg thali) 

Day 2: 28th May 2026 – Through Konkan Villages to Walaval and sunset at Khavane

               Exploring Konkan on a two-wheeler has a charm that is hard to describe. Every road lead to something beautiful—endless coconut groves, mango orchards, traditional Konkani homes, ancient temples, and unexpected viewpoints that make you stop and admire nature. Every village has its own story, culture, and history waiting to be discovered.

Our destination for the day was the beautiful Shri Lakshmi Narayan Temple at Walaval.

The ride itself became one of the best parts of the day. The road passed through peaceful forest stretches where our daughter, Samaira, was busy spotting butterflies, colourful birds, and little wonders of nature that are rarely seen in city life. Watching the excitement on her face made the journey even more memorable.
As we reached Walaval, the temple welcomed us with its peaceful surroundings. Hidden amidst greenery, Shri Lakshmi Narayan Temple is one of the finest examples of traditional Konkan temple architecture. The beautifully carved wooden pillars, sloping tiled roof, spacious Sabhamandap, and the use of laterite stone give the temple a timeless charm.

Shri Lakshmi Narayan Temple at Walaval

The highlight for us was the beautiful lotus pond beside the temple. Dozens of blooming lotus flowers reflected in the still water, creating a picture-perfect scene. It was one of those peaceful places where you simply want to sit quietly and soak in the surroundings.

Lotus lake at Shri Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Walaval

              Shri Lakshmi Narayan Temple is one of the oldest and most respected temples in the Konkan region. It is dedicated to Lord Lakshmi Narayan, a form of Lord Vishnu with Goddess Lakshmi. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Vishnu is the protector and preserver of the universe, while Goddess Lakshmi represents wealth, prosperity, and well-being. Devotees believe that offering prayers here brings peace, happiness, and prosperity to the family.
             Local people also believe that the idol of Lord Lakshmi Narayan is Swayambhu, meaning self-manifested, although there is no historical evidence to confirm this. Like many ancient temples in Konkan, stories and legends have been passed down through generations, adding to the temple's spiritual importance.

             Although the exact age of the temple is unknown, historians believe it is several centuries old. The architecture reflects the traditional building style of Konkan, designed to withstand heavy monsoon rains. One of the temple's unique attractions is its beautiful Deepmal (lamp tower), which is illuminated during festivals. The temple comes alive during celebrations like Ram Navami, Narali Purnima, Kartik Ekadashi, and the annual Jatra, held during the Hindu month of Chaitra (March–April).

               After spending peaceful moments at the temple, we continued towards Mhapan for lunch. One of the best discoveries of this trip was Bhogate Mess, recommended by several locals. From the outside, the restaurant looked very ordinary, but the food was simply outstanding. Fresh fish, traditional Konkani curries, Solkadhi, and homemade recipes made us feel as if we were enjoying a meal in someone's home rather than at a restaurant. We loved the food so much that we returned here for three lunches during our five-day holiday.

By evening, we reached Khavane Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches in the Sindhudurg region. While the beach offers a few water sports activities, its biggest attraction is undoubtedly the sunset. It was slightly crowded but still peaceful enough to enjoy the evening.
               Our way of experiencing sunsets has changed over the years. Earlier, we would quietly sit on the beach, listening to classical music while watching the sky change colours. Now, our evenings are filled with laughter as we play in the waves, build sandcastles with Samaira, and watch her enjoy every moment. Somehow, these simple moments feel even more special.

            The wide shoreline, anchored fishing boats, clear weather, and the golden hues of the setting sun created a magical atmosphere. We spent a long time watching the sky slowly change from blue to orange and finally to shades of pink before making our way back to Nivati.

Some journeys are remembered for famous attractions, while others stay in your heart because of peaceful temples, delicious local food, quiet beaches, and the happiness of sharing those moments with family. This day gave us all of that.

Major Expenses:

• Veg Lunch: Approx ₹300-340/-
• Veg dinner with Modak at hotel: Approx ₹400/-

Day 3: 29th May 2026 – Temples, Legends and Heritage of Vengurla

             After two days of exploring Konkan on our own, we decided to slow down and enjoy a relaxed day. Instead of driving ourselves, we hired an autorickshaw for local sightseeing and temple hopping. After a peaceful breakfast at the hotel, we started our journey at 9 AM towards Vengurla — a beautiful coastal town where spirituality, history, and Konkani culture come together.
              Our first stop was Sateri Devi Temple. Sateri Devi is one of the most respected folk deities of Goa and the Konkan region. Traditionally, she is considered the protector of villages, forests, and the natural surroundings. Many believe that Sateri Devi is a form of Mother Earth and Shakti, representing the power and energy of nature. Several families from Vengurla and nearby villages worship her as their Kuldevi (family deity) and visit the temple during important occasions to seek blessings.

Sateri Devi Temple, Vengurla

One of the most interesting traditions connected with Sateri worship is the sacred anthill (Varul in marathi). In many Sateri temples across Goa and Konkan, the goddess is worshipped in the form of an anthill, symbolizing Mother Earth, fertility, and the connection between humans and nature. Although the Vengurla temple has a beautifully decorated idol of Goddess Sateri, the belief and respect for the anthill tradition remain deeply rooted among devotees.

               The temple itself is a beautiful example of traditional Konkan architecture. Built using laterite stone, wood, and lime plaster, the structure reflects the building style developed to suit the coastal climate. As we entered, we walked through the spacious Sabhamandap (prayer hall) supported by wooden pillars. The simple yet elegant wooden craftsmanship reflected the charm of old Konkan temples. Inside the Garbhagriha (sanctum), the idol of Goddess Sateri was beautifully decorated with colourful sarees, jewellery, flowers, and ornaments. The peaceful atmosphere of the temple encouraged us to spend a few quiet moments in prayer. Surrounded by trees and greenery, the temple truly reflects the deep bond between Konkan's people, their traditions, and nature.

             Our next stop was Manshishwar Temple, a place unlike any other temple we had visited in Konkan. While most temples in the region are known for tiled roofs, spacious prayer halls, and traditional architecture, Manshishwar Temple is unique because it has no sanctum and no idol. Located beside the Mansi Bridge on the Vengurla–Shiroda road, this temple is a place where silence itself becomes a form of worship. Everyone passing through this area, irrespective of religion, follows the tradition of maintaining silence. Vehicle horns are not blown, loudspeakers are avoided, and visitors respectfully keep the surroundings peaceful.

Manshishwar Temple, Vengurla

              In the nearby creek, a raised platform known as the Devchar of Mansi stands proudly with hundreds of saffron flags fluttering in the wind. These flags represent the devotion and faith of the local people. According to local folklore, Manshishwar originally came from the Western Ghats and later moved to Golvan village. The deity was believed to test other gods by asking them to pass beneath his feet. To resolve this, the village deity Ravalnath established Manshishwar near the Mansi Creek, where he continues to be worshipped today. The temple's name comes from the nearby Mansi Bridge.

Our next destination was Vetoba Temple at Aravali. Vetoba is considered a manifestation of Vetal, a guardian deity associated with Bhairava, a fierce form of Lord Shiva. Locals worship Vetoba as the protector of the village and believe that he guards the region from negative forces. The highlight of this temple is the impressive idol of Vetoba, standing over nine feet tall and holding a sword, giving the appearance of a powerful guardian. A unique tradition here is devotees offering leather sandals to the deity. According to local belief, Vetoba walks around the village at night protecting the people, and the sandals represent his journeys. This temple beautifully shows how folk traditions and mainstream Hindu beliefs have blended together in Konkan culture.

Vetoba Temple, aravali

              After a quick visit to Vetoba Temple, we headed towards Redi Ganapati Temple. The famous Ganapati Temple at Redi became popular after a large idol of Lord Ganesha was discovered in the Redi region during mining activities. Since then, it has become one of the most visited Ganapati temples in southern Konkan. Devotees believe that Lord Ganesha here is extremely powerful and blesses those who pray with true devotion.

Redi Ganapati

             Although we had visited all these temples several times in the past, we wanted to experience them again with our daughter. This time, the purpose was different — to share our culture, traditions, and stories with her. She happily listened to the mythology and legends behind every temple and enjoyed connecting stories with the places we visited.

After completing our temple trail, we continued towards Yashwantgad Fort (Redi Fort). Built during the Maratha period and later occupied by the Portuguese, Yashwantgad once played an important role as a coastal watchpoint, protecting the nearby creek and maritime routes. Today, the fort stands partly in ruins, but its massive laterite walls, old gateways, and peaceful surroundings still carry the stories of its glorious past.

Yashwantgad

              Restoration work is currently in progress, and we were impressed with the efforts made so far. The work has been carried out carefully without disturbing the historical character of the fort. We hope the entire fort gets beautifully restored while preserving its original charm. The biggest highlight of Yashwantgad is the breathtaking view from the top. Standing on the fort walls, we could see the beautiful coastline stretching ahead — the golden sands of Shiroda Beach, the peaceful Redi Beach, the endless Arabian Sea, and the lush green Konkan landscape. Watching waves meet the shore from a historic fort was a magical experience and a perfect combination of history and nature.

              After a spiritually and culturally enriching morning, we headed to Hotel Krishna in Vengurla for lunch. The food was delicious and gave us another chance to enjoy authentic Konkani flavours. The second half of the day was dedicated to exploring Vengurla's heritage. We walked through the local market, visited the remains of the historic Dutch Factory that once connected Vengurla with international maritime trade, explored the famous Vengurla Lighthouse, and spent some peaceful time near the old Vengurla port.

               By evening, we decided to slow down again. Our daughter was getting tired and had already planned her evening — spending time in the swimming pool. Back at the resort, she happily declared the pool as her kingdom while we relaxed and enjoyed another beautiful Konkan evening surrounded by nature.
Some days of travel are not about covering places quickly. They are about stories, traditions, family moments, and creating memories

Major Expense:

• Auto on day rent: ₹1500/-
• Lunch at Vengurla: Approx ₹700/- (2 fish thali and 1 veg thali)
• Dinner at hotel: Approx ₹300/-

Day 4: 30th May 2026– Nivati Fort and a Reunion with Kondura Beach

              The day started early with a short bike ride towards Nivati Fort. Located near Kille Nivati village, this coastal fort sits proudly on a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea. Built during the era of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, Nivati Fort played an important role as a coastal watchpoint, helping monitor the movement around Karli Creek and the nearby Vengurla Port. Though only parts of the fort remain today, its historical importance and strategic location are still clearly visible. The real beauty of Nivati Fort is not only its ruins but also the incredible views it offers.

After reaching Nivati village, a small ghat section takes you uphill by vehicle, and just before the final curve near the top, a small walking path leads towards the fort entrance. The trail is short and uneven, and during monsoon it can become slippery, so comfortable shoes are recommended. Another way to reach the fort is through a small hiking trail from the beach, which eventually joins near the main entrance.

Today, Nivati Fort stands mostly in ruins, but the old laterite stone walls, remaining structures, and fortifications still tell stories of the past. Slowly, nature has taken over the fort, with greenery growing around the old stones and creating a beautiful blend of history and nature.
Unlike famous forts that attract large crowds, Nivati Fort remains peaceful and untouched. There are no major facilities inside, which makes the experience rawer and closer to nature. Standing there quietly, with only the sound of wind and waves around, feels like discovering a forgotten chapter of Konkan history.

The biggest highlight of the fort is the breathtaking panoramic view from the top. The endless Arabian Sea stretches towards the horizon, while Nivati Rock Lighthouse stands in the sea like a tiny landmark. The rugged Konkan coastline looks beautiful in every direction. On one side, you can see the stunning Bhogve Beach, and on the other side, the peaceful Kille Nivati Beach. Looking at this strategic location, it becomes easy to understand why this place was chosen for a fort centuries ago.

Nivati Lighthouse

Bhogave Beach

                 After exploring the fort, we visited nearby Kille Nivati Beach. To our surprise, the beach was completely empty. No crowds, no noise—only waves, sand, and the peaceful beauty of Konkan. A short walk along this untouched beach was the perfect way to end our fort visit.

Kille Nivati

                 For lunch, we returned to our favourite food destination of the trip — Bhogate Mess at Mhapan village. I enjoyed their delicious fish thali, and by now this place had practically become our regular lunch stop during the holiday.

The evening was reserved for Kondura Beach.

Today, Kondura Beach has become more popular because of social media reels and travel videos. But for us, Kondura has a special emotional connection. We had visited this beach almost 12-14 years ago when it was still a hidden gem known only to a few travelers. Back then, there were hardly any visitors, no signboards, and no social media attention. I still remember that even on a weekend in November, we were the only tourists on the beach. Returning after more than a decade brought back many memories.
              Some places change with time, while some remain beautiful despite the changes. Kondura belongs to the second category. The biggest change we noticed was only the increase in visitors. The natural beauty of the place was still intact.

We spent a couple of hours playing on the sand and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. As evening approached, we witnessed a beautiful sunset where the sun slowly disappeared into the sea horizon, painting the sky with golden colors.

Sunset

               Just beside the beach is the peaceful Lingeshwar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple adds a spiritual charm to the coastal landscape. Unlike crowded pilgrimage sites, Lingeshwar Temple has a simple village-temple atmosphere surrounded by coconut trees, silence, and the sound of ocean waves. It beautifully represents the connection between spirituality and nature in Konkan.

The journey back to Nivati after sunset gave us another unexpected memory.

While riding through the costal road near Khanave, we suddenly spotted a pack of jackals crossing the road. It was dark, and I immediately applied the brakes. To our surprise, two of them stopped on the roadside, just a few metres away from us, calmly looking at us.

Samaira was extremely excited (without making loud voice) when we explained what we were watching. We stopped there quietly and managed to capture a small video on our mobile. This became one of her most exciting stories to share with friends and relatives back home. Since she was so interested, we slowly followed them for some distance on the village road. When the jackals finally disappeared into the darkness, nature surprised us once again.

Nearby trees and grasslands were glowing with countless fireflies. Samaira had only heard about fireflies through stories, but this was her first time seeing them in real life. Standing there in the darkness, watching tiny lights blink across the field, she was completely fearless and amazed by what nature had offered us.

It was one of those magical travel moments that cannot be planned.
As always, dinner was back at our resort, followed by another peaceful night in Nivati — ending another beautiful day filled with history, beaches, and wildlife experience.

Major Expense: 

• Breakfast: ₹210/-
• Lunch: Approx ₹600-700/-
• Dinner: Approx ₹250/-

Day 5: 31st May 2026 – Village Life, Final Sunset and Dashavatar

After a few busy and adventurous days, we decided to keep this morning slow and relaxed. Our daughter happily spent extra time in the swimming pool while we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast with no fixed plans.
Later, we explored the peaceful villages, old temples, and quiet roads around Nivati and Mhapan. For lunch, we once again visited Bhogate Mess, which had become our favorite place for authentic Konkani food.

            As evening approached, we returned to Nivati Beach for one last sunset by the sea. The sky slowly turned beautiful shades of orange and pink as fishing boats made their way back to the shore. It was a calm and memorable way to end our beach visits.

However, the best part of the day was still ahead. After sunset, we visited the nearby Sateri Devi Temple, where a traditional Dashavatar performance was being held.

Dashavatar is one of the oldest folk theatre traditions of the Konkan region. The performances are based on the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu and beautifully combine mythology, music, dance, storytelling, and live acting. Long before television and movies reached villages, Dashavatar entertained people while also teaching stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Puranas.

Watching a Dashavatar performance in a village setting had been on our travel wishlist for many years, and it truly lived up to our expectations. The colorful costumes, powerful dialogues, live music, and enthusiastic local audience created a magical atmosphere.

One of the most memorable moments involved our daughter. Even though she had seen a male actor getting ready backstage, she simply could not believe that the female character on stage was actually being played by a man. The performance was so convincing that she remained amazed throughout the show. It was a perfect farewell gift from Konkan.

             For dinner, we visited W Café in Mhapan village. It is a small local café serving pizza, pasta, burgers, and Chinese food. After enjoying Konkani meals for the past four to five days, our daughter wanted something different.

We had very low expectations because the café looked simple from the outside, but we were pleasantly surprised. The pizza was made with freshly prepared dough instead of ready-made bread, and it was delicious. The pasta, burger, and other dishes we ordered were also fresh and tasty. It turned out to be one of the best unexpected food experiences of our trip.

After dinner, we returned to the Dashavatar performance for a while before heading back to our hotel to rest.

Major Expense: 

• Lunch: Approx ₹600-700/-
• Dinner: approx ₹500/-

Day 6: 1st June 2026 – Goodbye Konkan

The final morning of our trip arrived sooner than we expected. After packing our bags and saying goodbye to the resort, we started our journey to Sindhudurg Airport. The airport is small but well-designed, clean, and pleasant. Since we reached early, our daughter happily spent her time watching a couple of airplanes land and take off. She enjoyed every moment of it. Soon, it was time to board our 10:20 AM flight back to Pune. As the aircraft climbed above the beautiful Konkan coastline, we looked down at the beaches, villages, rivers, and green hills that had been part of our lives over the past six days. It was a beautiful farewell view.

Devbag Beach

By lunchtime, we were back home, carrying countless happy memories with us.

This trip was never about ticking off famous tourist attractions or following a packed itinerary. Instead, it was about enjoying peaceful beaches, ancient temples, quiet village roads, delicious local food, stunning sunsets, history, folk traditions, and, most importantly, quality time together as a family.

Sometimes, the best holidays are the ones where you simply slow down and enjoy every moment. That is exactly what this Vengurla and Nivati trip gave us, making it one of our most memorable and cherished journeys to Konkan.

Contact Details

• Mangroves home stay: 9403786771
• Bike on rent, Nivati (Bhagyesh): 9356383951
• Auto for Rent (Sandesh Rawale): 9421261691
• Bhogate restaurant:  9420133014
• Kayaking (Keshav Juvatkar): 8459980748 (we haven't opted service as it was closed due to end of season)

Thank you for reading our travel story. We hope it inspires you to explore the beautiful Konkan coast. Until our next adventure, happy travelling.

Pritesh Kulkarni

Pune

पुणे ते गणपतीपुळे (Via कोल्हापूर – अणुस्कुरा) solo सायकलिंग - – सह्याद्रीतून समुद्रापर्यंत…

 २०२४ मध्ये मी गणपतीपुळेपर्यंतचा सोलो सायकलिंग टूर केली होती. त्या वेळी माझा रूट ताम्हिणी घाट आणि दापोलीमार्गे होता. पण २०२५ मध्ये पुन्हा गणपतीपुळेला जायचं ठरवलं तेव्हा यावेळी वेगळा रस्ता अनुभवायचा होता. त्यामुळे मी सावर्डे (तासगावजवळ) – कोल्हापूर – आंबा बाजूने अनस्कुरा घाट असा रूट निवडला. या रूटमुळे अंतर ३००+ किमी ऐवजी ५००+ किमी झाले, पण सावर्डे येथील कुलदेवीचे दर्शन, कोल्हापूर भेट आणि निसर्गाने भरलेला प्रसिद्ध अनस्कुरा घाट अनुभवायला मिळाला. त्यातच गावखडी ते गणपतीपुळे हा समुद्रकिनाऱ्यालगतचा सुंदर राईड अनुभवता आली.

हा ५००+ किमीचा सोलो सायकलिंग प्रवास फक्त अंतर पूर्ण करण्यासाठी नव्हता, तर नवीन रस्ते, निसर्ग, लोक आणि स्वतःला पुन्हा एकदा अनुभवण्यासाठी होता.

यावेळी या सोलो सायकलिंग प्रवासासाठी माझी शारीरिक तयारी तितकी चांगली नव्हती, कारण सरावासाठी फारसा वेळ मिळाला नाही. पण मानसिकदृष्ट्या मात्र मी पूर्णपणे तयार होतो. या रूटवरील बहुतांश भागाला मी आधी अनेकदा कारने भेट दिली असल्यामुळे रस्ता, घाट आणि भूभागाची चांगली कल्पना होती, त्यामुळे terrain ची फारशी चिंता नव्हती. प्रवास सुरू करण्यापूर्वी रूट, elevation, रोजचा प्रवास, तसेच मुक्कामाच्या ठिकाणांची नीट माहिती आणि planning केली. सगळं विश्लेषण करून शेवटी २० डिसेंबर ही तारीख प्रवासासाठी निश्चित केली आणि पुन्हा एकदा सायकलवरून नवीन आठवणी तयार करण्यासाठी सज्ज झालो.

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२० डिसेंबर २०२५ - दिवस १: पुणे ते कराड – (160Km)

पहाटे ४:३० वाजताचा गजर वाजला आणि प्रवासाची सुरुवात ५:३० झाली. पुण्याच्या थंडगार वातावरणात सायकलवर बसताना अंगात एक वेगळीच ऊर्जा होती. तांबडं फुटायला लागलं असताना मी कात्रज बायपास घाट चढायला सुरवात केली. अनेकदा इथे सराव केल्याने घाट सहज पार पडला व मग पुढे नुसता उतार असल्याने वेग पकडत कापूरहोळ गाठले. सकाळी साधारण १० वाजेपर्यंत मी शिरवळला पोहोचलो. डिसेंबर महिना असल्यामुळे अजूनही हवेत गारवा जाणवत होता. तिथे एका छोट्या हॉटेलमध्ये नाश्ता आणि गरम कॉफी घेतली. थोडा वेळ आराम करून पुढचा प्रवास सुरू केला. आता समोर होता खंबाटकी घाट. हवामान थंड असल्यामुळे चढ सहज झाला आणि अवघ्या ४५ मिनिटांत घाट माथ्यावर पोहोचलो. वर काही फोटो काढले आणि मग काळजीपूर्वक पण वेगात घाट उतरण्याचा आनंद घेतला. घाटातील वळणांवर सावधपणे सायकल नियंत्रित करत खाली उतरताना जोश वेगळ्याच पातळीवर होत.

खंबाटकीनंतर साताऱ्यापर्यंतचा रस्ता सतत rolling terrain होता. सकाळचा गारवा आता कमी होत गेला आणि उन्हाची तीव्रता जाणवू लागली. दुपारपर्यंत सातारा गाठलं. साताऱ्यातील लांब आणि चढ असलेले फ्लायओव्हर पार करताना थोडा दम लागत होता, विशेषतः इतकं अंतर पार केल्यानंतर. दुपारी साधारण १:३० नंतर एका रस्त्यालगतच्या हॉटेलमध्ये थांबून व्हेज थाळीवर ताव मारला. गरम जेवणामुळे शरीराला पुन्हा ऊर्जा मिळाली. तिथेच २०-२५ मिनिटं आराम करून पुन्हा प्रवास सुरू केला. पण आता पुढचा प्रवास थोडा कठीण वाटू लागला. कडक उन्हात एकट्याने सायकल चालवणं थकवणारं होतं. तरी steady pace ठेवत उंब्रजपर्यंत पोहोचलो. हेल्मेटखाली घाम, अंगात थकवा, आणि अजून बरंच अंतर बाकी. इथेच खरी परीक्षा होती – थांबायचं की पुढे जायचं? मी स्वतःला सांगितलं – “थोडं थोडं कर, पण थांबू नकोस.”

संध्याकाळ जवळ येत होती आणि सूर्य मावळतीकडे झुकू लागला तसं पुन्हा हवामान साथ देऊ लागलं. गारवा वाढल्यामुळे वेग वाढवता आला आणि शेवटी नियोजनाप्रमाणे कराड गाठलं. त्या दिवसात एकूण १६० किमी अंतर पूर्ण झालं होतं. ठरवल्याप्रमाणे संध्याकाळी ६ वाजण्यापूर्वीच कराडला पोहोचलो. कराडमध्ये मी हॉटेल संगममध्ये मुक्काम केला. फ्रेश होऊन थोडा आराम केला आणि नंतर शांतपणे रात्रीचं जेवण घेतलं. दिवस खूपच थकवणारा होता, पण नियोजनानुसार अंतर पूर्ण केल्याचं समाधान मनात होतं. उद्या सकाळी पुन्हा ६ वाजता राईड सुरू करायची असल्यामुळे रात्री १० वाजताच झोपलो.

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२१ डिसेंबर २०२५ - दिवस २: कराड – तासगाव – सावर्डे (कुलदेवी दर्शन) – कोल्हापूर

दुसऱ्या दिवशी उठताना शरीर दुखत होतं. पाय जड झाले होते. पण प्रवास थांबवायचा नव्हता. हलका स्ट्रेचिंग करून पुन्हा सायकलवर बसलो. कराडहून तासगावच्या दिशेने निघालो. आजचा रूट कराड – तासगाव – सावर्डे – कोल्हापूर असा होता. हा भाग तुलनेने सपाट होता, त्यामुळे सायकल चालवायला मजा येत होती. ऊसाची शेतं, गावातले वातावरण आणि रस्त्याच्या कडेला खेळणारी मुलं, शेतकऱ्यांची लगबग, उसाची तोडणी  – सगळं खूप छान वाटत होतं. रस्त्यावरच्या लोकांनी “कुठं चाललात?” विचारलं की “गणपतीपुळे” म्हणताच त्यांच्या चेहऱ्यावर आश्चर्य आणि कौतुक दिसायचं. तासगाव गाठल्यावर सावर्डे गावाकडे वळलो. सावर्डेकडे जाताना मनात वेगळीच उत्सुकता होती, कारण हे आमच्या कुलदेवीचं गाव आणि आमच्या पूर्वजांशी जोडलेलं ठिकाण होतं.

सावर्डे गावात पोहोचल्यानंतर कुलदेवीचं दर्शन घेतलं. त्या शांत आणि प्रसन्न वातावरणात काही वेळ घालवल्यावर पूर्ण प्रवासाचा थकवा कमी झाल्यासारखा वाटला. थोडा आराम केल्यावर शरीर आणि मन दोन्ही पुन्हा fresh झालं. प्रवासात देवाचं दर्शन घेणं म्हणजे एक मानसिक आधार मिळाल्यासारखं वाटतं. गावातील काही स्थानिकांशी गप्पा मारण्याची संधी मिळाली आणि तो अनुभव खूप खास होता. मी पुण्याहून सायकलवर आलोय हे ऐकून त्यांना आश्चर्य वाटलं. त्यात जेव्हा मी सांगितलं की आमच्या ४-५ पिढ्या मागचे पूर्वज या भागातील होते, तेव्हा त्यांच्या चेहऱ्यावरचा आनंद आणि आपलेपणा खूप भावला. “आपल्या गावाशी नातं असलेला माणूस भेटतोय” ही भावना त्यांच्या बोलण्यात स्पष्ट जाणवत होती. त्या छोट्याशा भेटीत एक वेगळीच भावनिक जोड निर्माण झाली.

स्थानिकांशी चर्चा करून आणि थोडा वेळ विश्रांती घेतल्यानंतर पुन्हा कोल्हापूरच्या दिशेने प्रवास सुरू केला. दुपारी साधारण ३ वाजता आष्टा गावात जेवणासाठी थांबलो. चांगलं जेवण मिळाल्यामुळे थोडी ऊर्जा परत मिळाली. मात्र त्या दिवशी स्थानिक निवडणुकांचे निकाल लागले असल्यामुळे रस्त्यांवर ठिकठिकाणी विजय मिरवणुका सुरू होत्या. ढोल-ताशे, रंग आणि मोठी गर्दी यामुळे प्रवास थोडा संथ होत होता. पण एक गोष्ट विशेष जाणवली — जवळपास प्रत्येक ठिकाणी स्थानिकांनी मला सायकलसाठी जागा दिली आणि मुद्दाम रंग उडवणं टाळलं. त्यांच्या त्या समजूतदारपणामुळे प्रवास अधिक सहज झाला.

आष्टा ते कोल्हापूर हा टप्पा मात्र खूप कठीण वाटला. रस्ता पूर्णपणे सपाट असूनही कडक ऊन, शरीरातील वेदना आणि एकट्याने सतत सायकल चालवण्याचा मानसिक थकवा यामुळे pace मंदावला होता. मध्ये मध्ये छोटे breaks घेत, पाणी पित आणि स्वतःला motivate करत पुढे जात राहिलो. शेवटी राष्ट्रीय महामार्ग लागल्यानंतर थोडा confidence वाढला. आता कोल्हापूर फक्त २५ किमीवर आहे हे कळल्यावर अचानक ऊर्जा परत आली आणि वेगही वाढला. संध्याकाळी कोल्हापूरमध्ये पोहोचलो. आजचा मुक्काम राजारामपुरी येथे मामांच्या बंगल्यावर होता. पण तिकडे जाण्यापूर्वी महालक्ष्मी मंदिरात दर्शनासाठी गेलो. रविवार आणि डिसेंबर असल्यामुळे मंदिर परिसरात प्रचंड गर्दी होती. त्यामुळे बाहेरूनच दर्शन घेतलं आणि नंतर मामांच्या घरी गेलो.

दिवसभरात साधारण १३५ किमी अंतर पूर्ण झालं होतं. घरी गेल्यावर मामींनी बनवलेलं घरगुती जेवण मिळालं आणि दिवसभराचा थकवा काही प्रमाणात कमी झाला. रात्री सगळ्यांसोबत गप्पा मारत दिवसातील अनुभव शेअर केले आणि मग रात्री १० वाजता झोपलो. उद्या घाटाचा टप्पा असल्यामुळे थोडं उशिरा, सकाळी ७ ते ७:३० दरम्यान प्रवास सुरू करायचं ठरवलं.

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२२ डिसेंबर २०२५ - दिवस ३: कोल्हापूर – कळे – अनुस्कुरा घाट – आडिवरे (100km)

तिसऱ्या दिवशी सकाळी कोल्हापूरमधून थोडं उशिराच, साधारण ७ ते ७:३० वाजता प्रवासाला सुरुवात केली. मामांच्या घरी मिळालेला पौष्टिक घरगुती नाश्ता शरीरासाठी आणि मनासाठी दोन्हींसाठी उत्तम ऊर्जा देणारा होता. कोल्हापूर सोडण्यापूर्वी रंकाळा तलावाला भेट दिली. सकाळच्या वेळेत अनेक स्थानिक लोक चालणे, व्यायाम आणि गप्पांसाठी तलाव परिसरात आले होते. शांत पाणी, सकाळचा गारवा आणि स्थानिक जीवनाची ती झलक खूप सुंदर वाटली. काही फोटो काढून पुन्हा सायकलवर बसलो आणि पुढच्या प्रवासाला सुरुवात केली.

काळे गावापर्यंतचा प्रवास खूप आनंददायी झाला. सकाळच्या वेळेत सायकल चालवत असताना गावाकडचं साधं पण सुंदर जीवन अनुभवायला मिळत होतं. कुठे शेतात काम सुरू होतं, कुठे चहाच्या टपरीवर गप्पा रंगल्या होत्या, तर कुठे लहान मुलं शाळेकडे जाताना दिसत होती. अशा वातावरणात सायकलिंग करणं म्हणजे प्रवासापेक्षा अनुभव जास्त वाटत होता.

मात्र काळे गावाजवळ अचानक सायकलच्या टायर पंक्चर झालं. सायकल रस्त्याच्या कडेला लावली आणि सर्व tools व spare tube बाहेर काढून पंक्चर दुरुस्त करायला सुरुवात केली. जवळपास ३० मिनिटं त्यात गेली. पुन्हा प्रवास सुरू केला, पण अवघ्या ५-७ किमी अंतरावर पुन्हा त्याच टायरला पंक्चर झालं. त्या क्षणी थोडी चिडचिड झाली. तरीही शांतपणे दुसरी spare tube वापरून पंक्चर ठीक केलं. आता मात्र माझ्याकडे spare tube नव्हती, म्हणजे पुढे आणखी एक पंक्चर झालं असतं तर संपूर्ण सायकलिंग टूर थांबण्याची शक्यता होती. त्यामुळे पुढे एखादं गाव किंवा दुकान मिळतंय का हे सतत पाहत होतो. शेवटी बाजार भोगाव येथे एक पंक्चर दुकान दिसलं आणि जीवात जीव आला. तिथल्या माणसाने लगेच मदत करत दोन्ही tubes दुरुस्त करून दिल्या. त्यानंतर पुन्हा निर्धास्तपणे प्रवास सुरू केला.

अनस्कुरा घाटापर्यंतचा रस्ता जंगलातून जाणारा होता. घाट सुरू होण्याआधीच सतत येणारे छोटे climbs संयम आणि ताकद दोन्हींची परीक्षा घेत होते. प्रत्येक चढ संपला की “आता घाट सुरू होईल” असं वाटायचं, पण पुढे पुन्हा एक चढ समोर यायचा. काही किलोमीटरनंतर अखेर अनस्कुरा घाट सुरू झाला. अनस्कुरा घाट हा या संपूर्ण प्रवासातील सर्वात सुंदर भागांपैकी एक होता. अनुस्कुरा घाट म्हणजे सह्याद्रीचं खरं सौंदर्य. घनदाट जंगल, थंड हवा, आणि सतत चढणारा रस्ता. प्रत्येक पेडल मारताना शरीराला ताण जाणवत होता, पण आजूबाजूचं दृश्य सगळा थकवा विसरवत होतं. मध्येच एखाद्या ठिकाणी थांबून पाणी पिणं, फोटो काढणं आणि थोडा वेळ शांत बसणं – हे सगळं प्रवासाचा भाग बनलं होतं. लांब वळणावळणाचे रस्ते, गुळगुळीत रोड, सह्याद्रीच्या रांगांचे अप्रतिम दृश्य आणि सभोवताली दाट हिरवळ — सगळंच अविस्मरणीय होतं. घाट उतरताना वेग, वारा आणि निसर्ग यांचं एक सुंदर मिश्रण अनुभवायला मिळत होतं. मध्ये मध्ये काही ठिकाणी थांबून निसर्गाचं ते अप्रतिम सौंदर्य डोळ्यात साठवून घेतलं.

घाट संपल्यानंतर राजापूरकडे जाणारा रस्ता थोडा आव्हानात्मक होता. रस्त्याची अवस्था फार चांगली नव्हती, पण सभोवतालची हिरवळ आणि सतत वळण घेणारे रस्ते पुढे जाण्याची प्रेरणा देत होते. काही वेळाने मुंबई-गोवा महामार्ग लागला आणि तिथे राईडचा वेग पुन्हा वाढवता आला. रुंद आणि गुळगुळीत रस्ता, मध्ये मधे छोटे climbs आणि घाट उतारयामुळे पुन्हा राईडच मजा येऊ लागली. राजापूरजवळ आल्यावर राजापूर बायपास घेत पुढचा प्रवास सुरू ठेवला.

कोकण भागातील रस्ते म्हणजे सतत सहनशक्तीची परीक्षा घेणारे. दिवसभर सायकल चालवल्यानंतर शरीर पूर्णपणे थकलं होतं, पण अजून ३० किमी अंतर बाकी होतं — आजचं मुक्कामाचे ठिकाण होतं आडिवरे गाव. प्रत्येक चढ खूप exhausting वाटत होता, पण वर पोहोचल्यानंतर दिसणारे सह्याद्रीचे नजारे पुन्हा नवीन ऊर्जा देत होते. मार्गात डोंगरांच्या मागे मावळणारा सुंदर सूर्यास्त पाहायला मिळाला आणि त्या क्षणी दिवसाचा सगळा थकवा काही काळ विसरून गेलो. अंधार लवकर पडू लागला होता, त्यामुळे शेवटच्या टप्प्यासाठी पूर्ण ताकद लावली आणि वेग वाढवत आडिवरेकडे निघालो. शेवटी रात्री साधारण ७:३० वाजता आडिवरे गाठलं. आडिवरेमध्ये माझ्या सासरच्या ओळखीच्या कुटुंबाकडे राहण्याची व्यवस्था होती. त्यांचं घर दाट झाडीत, अगदी पारंपरिक कोकणी पद्धतीचं होतं. घराबाहेर गोठ्यात गायी-म्हशी, सभोवताली शांतता आणि निसर्ग — त्या वातावरणाने पूर्ण दिवसाचा थकवा एका क्षणात कमी केला. त्यांनी अगदी घरच्या माणसासारखं स्वागत केलं. स्वादिष्ट कोकणी जेवण दिलं आणि पाहुणा म्हणून नव्हे तर कुटुंबातील सदस्य म्हणूनच वागवलं. १०० किमीच्या roller coaster राईडनंतर आता विश्रांती गरजेची होती. 

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२३ डिसेंबर २०२५ - दिवस ४: आडिवरे – गावखडी – पावस – रत्नागिरी – गणपतीपुळे (70km)

चौथा दिवस म्हणजे कोकणातील सर्वात सुंदर टप्पा. सकाळी आडिवरेहून निघालो आणि किनारी मार्गाने प्रवास सुरू केला. आजचा दिवस खास होता, कारण अखेरचा टप्पा होता गणपतीपुळे. पण त्याआधी कोकण किनारपट्टीवरील अनेक सुंदर ठिकाणं अनुभवायची होती. सकाळच्या शांत वातावरणात सायकल चालवत काही वेळातच गावखडीला पोहोचलो. हा या संपूर्ण टूरमधील पहिला समुद्रकिनारा होता. समोर दिसणारा अथांग समुद्र, किनाऱ्यावरची शांतता आणि सकाळचा गार वारा मनाला खूप सुखावून गेला. तिथे थोडा वेळ थांबून फोटो घेतले आणि पुन्हा प्रवास सुरू केला.

कोकणातील किनारी भागात सायकलिंग म्हणजे सतत endurance ची परीक्षा असते. कारण जवळपास प्रत्येक समुद्रकिनारा किंवा गाव हे डोंगरांच्या मध्ये वसलेलं असतं. त्यामुळे सतत घाट चढणं आणि उतरवणं सुरूच असतं. प्रत्येक चढ दमवणारा, पण प्रत्येक उतार आणि समोर दिसणारा समुद्र पुन्हा ऊर्जा देणारा होता.

पावसच्या दिशेने जाताना एका प्रसिद्ध ठिकाणी नाश्त्यासाठी थांबलो — श्री दत्ता उपहारगृह, ज्याला “भटाची मिसळ” म्हणूनही ओळखलं जातं. गरमागरम आणि झणझणीत मिसळ खरोखर अप्रतिम होती. गोलप घाट चढायच्या आधी असा नाश्ता अगदी गरजेचा होता. मिसळ आणि चहामुळे पुन्हा शरीरात ऊर्जा आली आणि मग गोलप घाटाची चढाई सुरू केली. घाट चढून वर आल्यानंतर लागलेला सपाट भूभागामुळे जरा सायकल चालवायला बरे वाटले. 

आजचा मुख्य उद्देश वेग किंवा अंतर नसून कोकण किनारपट्टीचा निसर्ग मनापासून अनुभवणं हा होता. त्यामुळे मध्ये मध्ये थांबत, फोटो घेत आणि शांतपणे प्रवास सुरू ठेवला. रत्नागिरीमध्ये श्री पतित पावन मंदिराजवळ थोडा वेळ विश्रांती घेतली. रत्नागिरी शहराच्या हृदयस्थानी वसलेलं पतित पावन मंदिरात गेलो. हे केवळ धार्मिकच नाही, तर ऐतिहासिकदृष्ट्याही खूप महत्त्वाचं ठिकाण आहे. या मंदिराचा उद्देश अस्पृश्यता निर्मूलन आणि समाजातील प्रत्येकाला एकत्र आणणं असा होता. मंदिराचं बांधकाम साधं, पण त्यातील शांतता आणि श्रद्धेचा भाव भावतो. मंदिराचा परिसर स्वच्छ आणि शांत आहे, जे एक मानसिक समाधान देते. वीर सावरकरांनी या मंदिराला विशेष महत्त्व दिलं होतं, म्हणूनच इथं त्यांच्या स्मृतींना उजाळा दिलाय तर छोटे पण सुंदर असे प्रदर्शन आहे ज्यात आपल्या महान क्रांतिकारकांची माहिती तर सावरकरांच्या काही वस्तू पाहायला मिळतात. इथे रत्नागिरी सायकलिंग क्लबमधील सायकलिस्ट राकेश हेरंबे यांची भेट झाली. सायकलिंग, कोकणातील सायकलिंगचे अनुभव आणि माझ्या कोकणातील टूरचे अनुभव यावर आमच्या छान गप्पा रंगल्या. सायकलिंगमुळे अनोळखी लोकांशीही सहज connection तयार होतं, हे पुन्हा एकदा जाणवलं.

पुरेशी विश्रांती घेतल्यानंतर पुन्हा पुढच्या प्रवासाला सुरुवात केली आणि काही वेळातच कोकणातील सर्वात प्रसिद्ध ठिकाणांपैकी  एक — आरे- वारे बीच येथे पोहोचलो. समोर दिसणारा समुद्र, डोंगर आणि वळणावळणाचा रस्ता हे दृश्य नेहमीप्रमाणेच मन मोहून टाकणारं होतं. तिथे एका छोट्या  स्टॉलवर नाश्ता केला. विशेष म्हणजे, २०२४ च्या टूरमध्येही मी याच ठिकाणी थांबलो होतो आणि आश्चर्य म्हणजे स्टॉलच्या मालकाने मला ओळखलं. त्यानंतर काज़ीरभाटी, भांडारपुळे यांसारखे सुंदर समुद्रकिनारे पार करत शेवटी दुपारी साधारण ४:३० वाजता गणपतीपुळे गाठलं. गणपतीपुळेमध्ये पोहोचल्यानंतर सर्वप्रथम सायकल सुरक्षित ठिकाणी पार्क केली आणि श्री गणपतीचं दर्शन घेतलं. सलग दुसऱ्या वर्षी सायकलवरून गणपतीपुळेला पोहोचल्याची भावना शब्दांत सांगणं कठीण होतं. संपूर्ण प्रवास, आलेले चढ-उतार, थकवा, निसर्ग आणि अनुभव सगळं त्या एका क्षणी सार्थक झाल्यासारखं वाटलं.

दर्शनानंतर हॉटेलमध्ये check-in करून काही वेळ आराम केला. संध्याकाळी जवळच्या स्थानिक हॉटेलमध्ये जेवणासाठी गेलो आणि नंतर समुद्रकिनाऱ्यावर शांत फेरफटका मारला. समुद्राच्या लाटांचा आवाज आणि रात्रीचं शांत वातावरण मनाला खूप शांत करून गेलं. रात्री साधारण ११ वाजता झोपलो. आता पुढे सायकलिंगचा कोणताही प्लॅन नव्हता. परतीचा प्रवास गणपतीपुळेहून पुण्याला बसने करायचा होता, जी दुसऱ्या दिवशी संध्याकाळी साधारण ७ वाजता होती.

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२४ डिसेंबर २०२५ - दिवस ५: गणपती दर्शन – मालगुंड परिसर – पुण्याकडे परतीचा प्रवास

पाचव्या दिवशी सकाळची सुरुवात अगदी शांत आणि प्रसन्न वातावरणात झाली. पहाटे लवकर उठून सर्वप्रथम श्री गणपतीचं दर्शन घेतलं. सकाळच्या वेळेतील मंदिर परिसरातील शांतता, मंद घंटानाद आणि समुद्राकडून येणारा गार वारा मनाला खूप समाधान देणारा होता. सलग काही दिवसांच्या सायकलिंगनंतर आजचा दिवस पूर्णपणे आरामदायी आणि निवांत ठेवायचं ठरवलं होतं. दर्शनानंतर हलक्या फुलक्या राईडला सुरुवात केली. आज कोणतंही मोठं अंतर पार करायचं नव्हतं, फक्त गणपतीपुळे परिसर शांतपणे अनुभवायचा होता. सकाळच्या थंड हवेत समुद्रकिनाऱ्यालगत सायकल चालवत समाधान हॉटेलमध्ये नाश्त्यासाठी थांबलो. गरमागरम नाश्ता आणि कॉफी घेत दिवसाची सुरुवात अजूनच छान झाली.

त्यानंतर कवि केशवसुत स्मारकाला भेट दिली. मराठी साहित्यातील महत्त्वाच्या कवींच्या आठवणी जपणारं हे ठिकाण शांत आणि प्रेरणादायी वाटलं. पुढे मालगुंड बीचकडे सायकलिंग करत गेलो. सकाळच्या वेळेतील समुद्रकिनाऱ्याची शांतता, किनाऱ्यावर आदळणाऱ्या लाटा आणि मोकळा वारा मनाला खूप refreshing वाटत होता. मालगुंडहून पुढे खारवीवाडा पुलाकडे गेलो. पुलावरून दिसणारं कोकणातील गावांचं दृश्य खूप सुंदर होत. मध्ये मध्ये थांबत फोटो घेत आणि निवांतपणे सायकलिंग करत साधारण १५-२० किमीची छोटी राईड पूर्ण करून पुन्हा गणपतीपुळ्यात परतलो.

गणपतीपुळे मंदिर परिसरात त्या दिवशी प्रदर्शन भरलं होतं. स्थानिक वस्तू, कोकणी पदार्थ, घरगुती बनवलेले खाद्यपदार्थ आणि विविध स्टॉल्स यामुळे परिसरात छान उत्साहाचं वातावरण होतं. अनेक स्थानिक वस्तू पाहत फेरफटका मारला. दुपारचं जेवणही प्रदर्शनातील स्टॉलमध्येच केलं. कोकणी चव असलेलं साधं पण स्वादिष्ट जेवण खूप आवडलं.

दुपारनंतर हॉटेलवर परत येऊन आराम केला. सलग काही दिवसांच्या सायकलिंगनंतर शरीरालाही विश्रांतीची गरज होती. त्यामुळे उरलेला दिवस पूर्णपणे निवांत घालवला आणि आतापर्यंतच्या संपूर्ण प्रवासाच्या आठवणी मनात पुन्हा अनुभवत शांतपणे वेळ घालवला. गणपतीपुळेहून पुण्याला परतीचा प्रवास स्लीपर बसने केला. सायकल सुरक्षित ठेवण्यासाठी योग्य उपाययोजना करून आरामात प्रवास केला. प्रवास संपला असला, तरी मन मात्र अजूनही त्या रमणीय ठिकाणी अडकून पडलं होतं.

हा प्रवास मला खूप काही शिकवून गेला. एकट्याने प्रवास करणं म्हणजे स्वतःशी संवाद साधणं. प्रत्येक अडचण, प्रत्येक थकवा आणि प्रत्येक आनंद – सगळं स्वतः अनुभवणं. सायकलिंगमुळे मला निसर्गाच्या अधिक जवळ जाण्याची संधी मिळाली. सह्याद्रीचे घाट, कोकणाचा समुद्र, आणि गावांचं साधं जीवन – सगळं मनात कोरलं गेलं.