Travel blogs: May 2015

Forest from Madhya Pradesh was in my wish list from a long time. So this summer we decided to visit the Kanha National Park which is famous for Royal Bengal Tiger and Barasingha deer. It is one of the largest tiger national parks in India.

Travelers for this trip were me, my wife Renuka and friends Aditya-Neha, Saurabh - Gauri.

Kanha's special: Barasingha deer

About Kanha National Park:

Kanha Tiger Reserve (Also known as Kanha National Park) is in Madhya Pradesh, India. It is one of the best Parks in the India. Kanha forest is spread over 940 square km plus 1,009 square km of buffer zone. Kanha sanctuary was formed in the year 1933 and it became National Park in year 1955. Today it is a home of approx. 96 Tigers.
Species found in Kanha are tigers, leopards, wild cats, foxes, jackal, Indian Gaur, Barasingha (which is the pride of the place), spotted deer, Sambar, barking deer, four-horned deer and Langur. Spotting of Indian Slot bear, Hyena, wild Dogs and Blackbuck in Kanha is rare now-a-days. The park is also home of forest birds.
Kanha forest has 3 Gates to enter the park. Kanha-Kisli gate (In village Khatia), Mukki Gate and newly opened Sarai gate. You can book a Jeep safari from any gate and visit particular zone. Entire forest is divided into 4 different zones. Names of the zones are Kanha Zone, Kisli Zone, Sarai Zone and Mukki zone.
To reach Kanha forest, Jabalpur is the nearest railway station. Distance between Jabalpur and Kanha is around 175km. Nagpur, Maharashtra is another popular city which is well connected to Kanha forest by road. Distance between Nagpur and Kanha is around 280km.

Process and Rates to book Safari are mentioned at the end of this blog.

Day	Date	Location	Trip Plan
Day 0	19-May 2015, Tuesday	Pune	Board train from Pune to Nagpur at 6.30 PM
Day 1	20-May 2015, Wednesday	Nagpur - Kanha	Reach Nagpur by 10 AM. Road journey to Kanha-Kisli gate. Road journey time is 4.5 hours. Evening trail nearby resort area and Rest
Day 2	21-May 2015, Thursday	Kanha Forest	Morning Safari at Kanha Zone (Safari 1) Evening Safari at Sarhi Zone (Safari 2)
Day 3	22-May 2015, Friday	Kanha Forest	Morning Safari at Kisli Zone (Safari 3) Evening Safari at Mukki Zone (Safari 4)
Day 4	23-May 2015, Saturday	Kanha – Nagpur	Morning Safari at Kisli Zone (Safari 5) Road Journey to Nagpur Train to Pune at 6.30 PM
Day 5	24-May 2015, Sunday	Pune	Reach Pune by 9.45 AM

Day 0: 19-May 2015 – Pune to Nagpur:
Our journey began on 19th May 2015. We boarded the Azad hind express train (Train No 12129) at 6.25 PM for Nagpur. Another option was Pune-Nagpur Express but due to office time we preferred this train however our return journey was by Nagpur-Pune express (Train No 12136).

Day 1: 20-May 2015 – Nagpur – Kanha National Park (Village Khatia):
After a 15.30 hour journey, we reached Nagpur by 10 AM. Our friends joined us at Nagpur as they came by morning flight. For further journey, we had booked a car in advance. Our journey towards Kanha national forest began after quick breakfast in restaurant. Sun was dominating the day due to peak summer time. We took lunch break near Pench at MPTDC Rookhad Highway treat restaurant. Food was good but service was very slow.
After 5-5.30 hours of drive, finally we reached in Village Khatia which is entry point of Kanha forest. We had booked rooms in the Kingfisher resort which is around 3 km away from entrance gate. Kingfisher Resort is a newly opened resort and has very clean, beautiful cottage rooms along with a restaurant and swimming pool. Cottage rooms were large in size and equipped with all facilities. We booked 3 AC cottages for 3 nights stay. We checked in the rooms and handed over all online safari permits to the Resort manager. He took care of the vehicle booking and pick-drop facility for all safaris.

Kingfisher Resort, Kanha

Pool and cottage of Kingfisher Resort, Kanha

We spent a relaxed evening at the swimming pool. We had dinner by 9 PM. Food was so tasty that we didn’t try any other nearby restaurants during our stay. Our pick up for the next day was at 5 AM for morning safari hence we preferred rest after dinner.

Expense:

Pune-Nagpur train journey: INR 932/- (for 2 person Non AC berth)
Nagpur-Kanha car journey: INR 7000/- (for 6 people one way with all Tolls)
Breakfast at Nagpur: As per order
Lunch in MPTDC Rookhad Highway restaurant: INR 1025/- (Chicken for 2, 4 Veg dishes, Roti, Rice, Dal fry and cold drinks)
Kingfisher resort stay: INR 6000/- per AC cottage (for 3 Nights, 2 person)
Snacks and coffee: INR 450/- for 6 people (Coffee at 30*8 and finger chips at INR 70*3)
Dinner: INR 1195/- for 6 people (Butter chicken for 2, Roti, veg dishes, dal fry, rice, M Papad n salad)

Day 2: 21-May 2015 – Kanha National Park- Kanha Zone n Sarhi Zone:
We woke up by 4 AM. Our tea/coffee was ready by 4.30 AM along with packed breakfast. Safari jeep came at 5 AM sharp. Morning weather was pleasant and we were excited to start our first safari. We did verification of permit, guide fee payment and jeep safari payment after reaching to entrance gate.

Kingfisher Resort at 4 AM

Set for safari

By 5.30 AM, we went in the Kanha Zone. Once we were inside the jungle we saw a spotted deer. You see them all over India very easily, but somehow I always love looking at these animals again and again. Even though Tiger was main attraction for us, we were not fixated on stars like tigers; other inhabitants of the forests were a delight to observe too. All 4 zones have small natural lake and water stream where you can try your luck to spot mammals.

Spotted deer at Kanha National Park

We came at one lake where we saw Sambar and barking deer. The Barking Deer is one animal less seen and more heard. He literally makes a sound like a dog barking to warn others about a big cat Tiger. During our 5 safari’s we saw many Sambar deer and barking deer. We started exploring Kanha zone and after some time we saw group of Barasingha deer. Barasingha is the state animal of Madhya Pradesh state. Very beautiful animals were busy having their food in grassland area. After driving a few kilometers, our jeep driver saw 2 other jeep looking on lake side and all cameras are pointing at something. We thought we spotted a tiger and we went close to that spot. It was not tiger but rare sighting of mammal named Indian Sloth bear. We saw its clam walk along lake side closely. Soon we all realized that he was about to cross the route in front of jeep. We arranged our vehicle on road to make him more comfortable. In few minutes he crossed the road and disappeared into the dense forest. What a great sighting.

Sambar and Barking deer in one frame at Kanha National Park

Indian Sloth bear, Kanha National Park

Claim walk of Indian Sloth bear, Kanha National Park

Kanha zone is one of the main zones from Kanha forest. Kanha forest is a dense forest with a little bit of hilly region and huge grassland. From landscape perspective, this zone is very rich as compared to other zones. These zones also consist of small canteen in the middle of forest along with nice museum and photo gallery.

Beautiful Kanha Zone

Kanha Forest journey: In search of Royal Tiger

We saw many dancing Indian peafowl popularly known as Peacock. It is a national bird of India. Act to impress his partner was wonderful sight. We explored Kanha zone very well and saw spotted deer, Sambar deer, Barking deer, Barasingha deer, Wild boar, Indian sloth bear, Bison and Langur. While approaching towards canteen, we saw 3 jackal puppies. We took small break after searching a lot for Tiger. It was 10 AM in clock and we started our return journey towards entrance gate. First morning safari was successful even though we failed to spot royal tiger.

Indian Peafowl at Kanha National Park

Peafowl Dance to impress his Partner at Kanha National Park

Jackal, Kanha National Park

We had tasty lunch in Kingfisher resort. It was sunny hot day so we preferred to stay inside our room till our next safari. We reached at entrance gate by 3.30 PM for permit verification. Our evening safari started by 4PM in Sarhi zone. We saw spotted deer, Sambar deer, Barking deer and group of Barasingha deer while exploring Sarhi zone. As you venture deep inside, you feel how small and insignificant you are in the larger picture. The breadth and depth of the jungle is hard to really comprehend. And to think that only 20% of the area is open to tourists.

Blue Kingfisher, Kanha National Park

Barasingha deer, Also known as Indian Stag, Kanha National Park

Survival of the Fittest, Sambar deer at Kanha National Park

We spent more than 2 hours but didn’t spot any Tiger. By 6.15 PM we decided to start our return drive. When we reached close to Sarhi Lake (which is common for Sarhi and Kisli zone), we heard a Tiger roar. Our guide asked the driver to take us towards the lake. By the time we reached, 8-9 jeeps were already enjoying the Tiger sighting. After a few minutes, when the tiger crossed path, we got a chance to see the magnificent royal Bengal Tiger. It was world famous Munna tiger. The words “CAT”, clearly created by the pattern of his stripes across his forehead is what makes Munna easily identifiable from other tigers. Unfortunately I didn’t get its head on shot as he was walking away from the road. You can check other photos of Munna tiger on Google for word CAT on his forehead. Everyone’s eyes were fixed on the tiger till he disappeared in the forest.

Munna Tiger: Royal Walk of Bangal Tiger, Kanha national Park

Munna Tiger at Kanha National Park

I am the King for Kanha, Munna Tiger at Lake

He is extremely famous to take on the vehicles head on. He has the reputation of pushing back vehicles as he simply walks on the safari track and refuses to go off the road easily. We spent some time watching his royal walk. He was roaring loudly which gave us a feeling that he is truly king of Kanha forest. Munna Tiger is 12 year old and currently 2 grown male tigers are trying to capture his territory. Our evening safari ended on a beautiful note. We enjoyed our evening in resort’s swimming pool followed by dinner.

Expense

Coffee/tea + butter toast at 4.30AM: INR 175/- (tea at 25, coffee at 30 and bread butter)
Parcel Breakfast from resort: INR 380/- (veg cheese sandwich at 70 and 16 bread butter slice)
Kanha zone Safari: INR 3650/- (Permit INR 1850/- + Jeep rent INR 1800/-)
Guide fee: INR 300/-
Pick and drop from Resort: INR 300/-
Lunch: INR 950/- for 6 people (all veg dishes from Papad to rice and cold drink)
Sarhi zone safari: INR 3050/- (Permit INR 1250/- + jeep rent INR 1800/-)
Guide fee: INR 300/-
Pick and drop from Resort: INR 300/-
Dinner: INR 850/- for 6 people (all veg dishes from Papad to rice and cold drink)

Day 3: 22-May 2015 – Kanha National Park- Kisli Zone n Mukki Zone:
We woke up by 4.15 AM. Our tea/coffee was ready along with packed breakfast. Safari jeep came at 5 AM sharp. Our safari in Kisli zone started at 6AM. We were bit late hence our jeep was at 13-14th position while entering in forest. All Kisli zone jeeps were going in same area, our guide decided to take offbeat route. We went towards Raja kachha nala area. Only 2 more jeeps joined our path.

Road to Kisli zone, Kanha National Park

After few meters drive, Group of Barasingha welcomed us. When we went deep inside, we saw 2 different sized pugmarks, 1 grown male pugmark on track. Also heard few alert calls made by barking deer. Looking at the condition, we were confident to spot tiger. Soon we crossed a water stream and sensed tiger movement. We were waiting for 20 min and it paid off. One Tigress came out from the forest and crossed the road a few meters ahead of where our jeep. Her walk was powerful yet lazy and there was royal elegance with a seeming purpose. It was simply amazing to watch a magnificent royal Tiger/Tigress roaming freely in the wild.

Royal Entry of Tigress on the road, Kanha National Park

Gressfull walk, Tigress at Kanha National Park

Mother of 2 young cubs, Kanha National Park

We then went further on to explore the changing landscapes of this jungle from dense forests grasslands, from hills at a distance to dry up river beds, to better understand how life moves in a jungle for various animals. We took a breakfast halt and then went on other side of Kisli zone for Munna Tiger. We saw other mammals before leaving Kisli zone by 10.30 AM.

Run for your Life...Kanha National Park

Indian Bison, Kanha National Park

We took rest in the afternoon and then had lunch at the resort. Our evening safari was at Mukki zone which is far away from Kanha-Kisli zone area. We made one mistake while booking safari that we took Mukki zone in evening. From Kanha-Kisli zone it required 40-45 min to reach at Mukki zone and evening safari is of around 3 hours. Route to Mukki goes through dense forest and if you are lucky then you can spot tiger.

Wild boar

Female Barasingha, Kanha National Park

Till Mukki zone we only saw spotted deer, bison and Langur. When we reached near “Baba Thenga Lake”, we got to know from other jeep about tiger presence. We heard alert call of Sambar and some quick activity by Langur. All Langur were trying to climb tree as high as possible. After waiting for 30+ min, we heard loud roar. The tiger wasn’t in a mood to come out in public. We left Mukki zone by 6 PM as we were running behind forest schedule.

Alert Spotted deer, Kanha National Park

When we came in Kisli zone (Every jeep has to cross some part of Kisli zone), all vehicles were on their way to Kanha-Kisli gate. Satisfaction/joy could be seen on few faces as they spotted Tiger in their respective zones whereas few faces were unable to hide their disappointment. Our Mukki safari totally failed as we were hardly able to spot any mammals but still we got to experience different moods of the forest. We were not feeling bad that we couldn’t spot Tiger as it is pure luck and we can't control the nature.

Indian Roller

Expense:

Coffee/tea + butter toast: INR 115/- (tea at 25, coffee at 30 and bread butter)
Parcel Breakfast from resort: INR 370/- (veg cheese sandwich at 70 and 16 bread butter slice)
Kisli zone safari: INR 3050/- (Permit INR 1250/- + Jeep rent INR 1800/-)
Guide fee: INR 300/-
Pick and drop from Resort: INR 300/-
Lunch: INR 860/- for 6 people (Veg Aloo Parathas, Dal fry, Rice’s and cold drink)
Mukki zone safari: INR 3050/- (Permit INR 1250/- + jeep rent INR 1800/-)
Guide fee: INR 300/-
Pick and drop from Resort: INR 300/-
Dinner: INR 535/- for 6 people (Dal bati at 90, dal-khichadi at 70 and cold drinks)

Day 4: 23-May 2015 – Kanha National Park- Kisli Zone – Return journey:
We explored all 4 zones of Kanha and today was our last safari before leaving the lovely forest. Our last safari was at Kisli Zone. We entered the forest at 6 AM. We decided to explore Raja Kachha area again as very less vehicles prefer that part of Kisli zone and currently it is territory of Tigress (Which we saw last morning) and her 1.5 year old grown male cubs.
After dense forest drive, we came on huge grassland area. We spotted 2 grown jackals having feast on kill. We saw Indian sloth Bear’s foot mark on track. We followed it but were not lucky enough to spot him again in Kanha. We spent more than hour in Raja kachha due to alert call by deer’s. Many vehicles joined us but tiger was not in mood to come out.

Breakfast time for Jackal at Kanha National Park

Jackal with kill, Kanha National Park

We got to know from one jeep about Tiger sighting on Mukki route. In Kanha you are not allowed to switch zone during safari at any cost. Later we got to know from few tourists that most of the jeep from Mukki zone able to spot 2-3 tigers on Mukki route. Yesterday we were on same route for 40 + mins and there were no sighting. By 9 we took a pit stop for breakfast at Kisli check post canteen and left inside forest again to try our luck before we leave Kanha. We went near Kisli-Sarhi zone border which is territory of Munna and Kanphata Tiger. Two jeeps saw Munna tiger for few second before disappearing into forest. Guide gave his best to spot him again considering his direction but we didn’t get any success. We just saw other mammals and monitor lizard which was highlight at the end of safari.

Road blocked by Muscular Boy, Bison at Kanha

During our 5 safaris we learnt many things from forest and some interesting stories from guides/drivers. An interesting story about Munna tiger, that he has fought many territorial battles, one of which had left him with an injury on his leg giving him an awkward limp. He therefore gets his name from a guide in Kanha forest called “Munna” who also had a limp. Although, Munna’s leg has healed way back and his limp has disappeared, his name has stuck. One more Tiger named Kanphata got his name because, during territorial battles he had injury on his ear. His ear was teared off which gave him name Kanphata (Kan mean ear and phata means tearing)

Munna Guide from Kanha National Park

There are many stories of brave of Forest rangers. How they helped animals from danger situation or narrow escape from tiger or bear attack. Great work by Madhya Pradesh state and forest department as they are taking proper care of nature. India has been home of Tigers since generations; there are ever increasing reports of the tiger population decline due to deforestation and poaching few years back. I hope we are able to save our tigers and not have them as just another extinct species in the textbooks of future.

Road in Kanha Forest

We came back at the resort after finishing our 5th safari. We packed our bags and left for Nagpur by booked vehicle. It was wonderful experience spending days in the nature. 5 safaris, 2 times tiger sighting (one of them was World famous Munna tiger), Sloth bear, 3 jackal puppies, Jackal with Kill, Barasingha and all other deer’s and the most important was beautiful forest landscape...We enjoyed every second of Kanha Trip. Now it was time to return home with a lot of experience.

Time to say goodbye to Kanha National park

We reached Nagpur railway station by 6 PM and boarded Nagpur-Pune (Train no 12136) whereas other friends took flight to Pune. Following day we returned to Pune at 9:40 AM, ending the most pleasurable forest trip.

Expense:

Kisli zone safari: INR 3050/- (Permit INR 1250/- + Jeep rent INR 1800/-)
Guide fee: INR 300/-
Pick and drop from Resort: INR 300/-
Breakfast in Kisli canteen: INR 336/- for 6 people
Lunch on Kanha-Nagpur highway: INR 400/- (Only Dal khichadi and cold drink)
Kanha - Nagpur car journey: INR 7000/- (for 6 people one way with all Tolls)
Nagpur - Pune train journey: INR 932/- (for 2 person Non AC berth)
Parcel dinner for train journey: INR 180/-

Process for Safari booking:

1. Go to http://www.mponline.gov.in/Portal/Services/Forest/Search.aspx site and book your entry seat. (This payment is only entry permit and not jeep safari chargers)
2. Permit capacity and its availability is mentioned at http://www.mponline.gov.in/Quick%20Links/Forest/carryingCapacityChart.pdf
3. Please carry your mentioned ID proof for safari. Only those tourists are allowed in park whose names are mentioned in permit. To modify permit before safari, you need to contact forest department.
4. Carry print out of your permit as showing online receipt at counter doesn’t work every time.
5. Once you get permit then make you stay and journey arrangement
6. Once you reach in Kanha, either ask your hotel manager to make arrangement of forest registered jeep (They just call at gate and book 1 jeep against your permit number and no need to pay extra at hotel) OR visit at gate at 7 PM for morning safari and at 1-2 PM for same day evening safari to block jeep against your permit number.
7. On the date of safari, reach 45-60 min prior to safari time at entry gate. E.g. if morning safari starts at 6AM then verification process starts at 5.30 AM and for evening safari, if timing is 4PM then verification process starts at 3.30 PM
8. Show your permit and ID proof at entry gate and pay INR 300/- chargers for Guide.
9. There is one more counter for jeep payment. Pay INR 1800/- at counter as jeep rent. You need to mention your jeep number
10. Board your jeep to enjoy beautiful Kanha forest

Tips:

Make sure that your jeep should be among first 5 vehicles to enter in forest. It increases your chances in summer to spot Tiger on road in respective zone
Do not go to Mukki zone in evening time from Kanha-Kisli gate. Select Mukki zone for morning as morning slot is of around 4 hours.
If you are entering forest from Mukki zone then prefer morning safari in Kisli/Kanha/Sarhi zone OR if possible switch your stay at Khatia village (i.e. Kanha-Kisli zone) safari in Kisli/Kanha/Sarhi zone.
If not interested in landscapes and nature photography (Not talking about mammal photography) then prefer Kanha zone for evening time.
Park is closed on Wednesday evening & during Monsoon Season. So plan accordingly
Nature walk is allowed inside the park with a guide and guard. Check at Ticket counter for more details.
Tiger activity in particular zone changes as per time. So do not believe of anyone who says a chance of spotting tiger in xyz zone is higher than other. It completely depends upon your luck and observation of guide.

Contact details for your reference:

Kingfisher Resort: 07649277230 / 07898672515; Website: http://kingfisherresort.in/
Panther Resort: Arijit Agrawal – 09993037027 / 09200011888; Website: https://pantherresortkanha.wordpress.com/
Car rent owner from Kanha, MP: 09302723266.
Car driver from MP for Kanha: Mr. Yadav 09300447483.
Naresh Yadav as Kanha guide and driver: 09407319311.
Car rent for Kanha, at Nagpur: Kawade 09422109519 / Nagpure 09822202228.

Some more clicks from Kanha safari (Click on Image for better view)