Sunday, 16 February 2020

Two Sisters State: Assam and Meghalaya: Part 2

Amongst the ups and lows of life, between all challenges, one gets a sweet peaceful space which reenergizes life. This North-East was one such. It was a customized package tour by our well-wisher where I and Renu chalked day-wise itinerary with the help of holiday partner Prena travels. Considering the wedding anniversary's occasion, They Booked a trip to Assam and Meghalaya. This trip helped us to bounce back from our tough time.
Travellers for this trip were Me and Wife Renuka.


               To avoid the length of my travel blog, I have divided it into 2 parts. In this part, will like to share my travel experience at Shillong and Kaziranga.
To read my previous Blog, click on Two Sisters State: Assam and Meghalaya: Part 1

About Seven Sisters:
               7 States of India's North-east Part is known as Seven Sisters. Seven sister states are Assam (Dispur), Meghalaya (Shillong), Manipur (Imphal), Mizoram (Aizawl), Arunachal Pradesh (Itanagar), Nagaland (Kohima) and Tripura (Agartala). This name was used by journalist Jyoti Prasad Saikia in 1972. Seven States have similarity on Geographical, Economical and tribal culture. There are different views on the reason behind the name. But what I Feel is they are an integral part of India and blessed with lovely nature and rich culture.
Our trip was focused on Assam and Meghalaya. Assam shared the state border to rest north-east state and hence it is known as Gateway to North-East India. Dispur is the capital of the state but Guwahati is the primary entry point for Assam. Assam is situated just below the eastern Himalaya foothill. The state is famous for tea, Silk, one-horned rhinoceros, tourism and culture.
Meghalaya (Name meaning Home of Clouds) is a hilly state. Shillong is the capital of the state whereas Shillong is also known as Scotland of the East. Meghalaya is the wettest land of India with around 70% of the forest. The state offers you tourism throughout the year as per interest.

Our Day Wise plan:
Day
Date
Trip Plan
Stay
Day 1
09 February 2020
Pune to Guwahati via Kolkata.
Local Sightseen
Guwahati
Day 2
10 February 2020
Guwahati to Cherrapunji via Shillong.
Cherrapunji Sightseen
Sohra (Cherrapunji)
Day 3
11 February 2020
Double-decker Live root Bridge & Rainbow fall trek.
Shillong
Day 4
12 February 2020
Dawki River and Mawlynnong Village
Shillong
Day 5
13 February 2020
Local Sightseen
Shillong
Day 6
14 February 2020
Shillong to Kaziranga and local Sightseen
Kaziranga
Day 7
15 February 2020
Forest Safari and then Back to Guwahati
Guwahati
Day 8
16 February 2020
Local sightseen, Evening flight to Pune
Pune

Two Sisters

To read my previous Blog, click on Two Sisters State: Assam and Meghalaya: Part 1

Day 4: 12 Feb 2020: Dawki and Mawlynnong:
             We woke up by 7AM and had a tasty breakfast in the hotel. We spend some time in their garden which was beautifully decorated with a variety of flowers. Our driver came by 8:30AM and we left Shillong for our planned sightseen. Our first destination was Umngot River from Dawki (it is famous by name Dawki river). The entire journey was in Ghat with smooth and wide road. Road gets Narrow near Imngot river. We took a pit stop at Latara viewpoint. After a quick coffee break and photo, we left for our first destination.

Latara View Point

              We reached our first destination i.e. Umngot River by 11AM. It is considered to be one of the cleanest Rivers of India. When we reached the Umngot River, our Car driver booked a boat ride. You can see Bangaladesh land on the other side of the River. Many Bangladeshi people came on the riverside (from their part) for either picnic or to sell food items to Indian people those are on a boat ride. We spend around an hour for a ride which was good but definitely not to add in the must-to-do list. Our boatman took us on Bangaladesh side (might be their routine, so we may buy products) but we were not interested and came back. River water is very clear and you can see the river bed easily. Too many boats for a ride looks worry point for us even though all boats are Non-Motorised.

Umngot River
Umngot River

Umngot River...a.k.a Dawki River

Bangladesh Land across Umngot River

               After the Umngot River visit, we headed towards Dawki-Tamabil check post which is crossing the border between India and Bangladesh. This border is used to transport coal and stone to Bangladesh. We took some photographs at the border check post and had word with our brave BSF. We had been to Wagha border, Border Pillar No 609 from Rajasthan (India-Pak Check post which not allowed for civilians) and visited another border check post.

At India-Bangladesh Border

             We took our Lunch at Ka Bri War restaurant which was suggested by the driver. Panjabi food was tasty with quick service. Post Lunch, we visited Mawlynnong Village. The road leading to the village was not very smooth whereas road construction was in progress. Though the roads in the Village was clean and very smooth. Mawlynnong Village won the cleanest Village of India award in the year 2005. Till date, the village is considered as one of the cleanest villages. The village was maintained very well and all most all home from village offers Homestay. To maintain its clean village status and high tourist flow, they made a lot of changes in the village due to which it looks artificial. Many homes are converted into a bungalow which lost the charm of Khasi Village. If you are seeking for peace then you can prefer to stay in the village. More or less, you will find Meghalaya's villages are pretty clean. No regrates even if you miss this place.

Mawlynnong Village
Mawlynnong Village

               After Mawlynnong Visit, we started our return journey to Shillong. We took a pit stop at Balance rock viewpoint. It is large size rock perfectly balanced on a small-sized rock. There is an entry fee to view the Balancing Rock. Our driver Suggested one more point i.e. Nohwet Live root bridge. It is mainly known as Mawlynnong Bridge but it is actually in Nohwet Village. Though we had visited unique and wonderful Double-decker and single live root bridge at Sohra (Cherapunjji) we decided to visit this Live root bridge as well. It just required 10-15 min of a climb down trail hence popular in tourists. The root bridge is wide and sturdy. There is no stopping on the root bridge for pictures. They have a second parallel bridge constructed next to the root bridge, where you can stop and take pictures. There are plenty of shops to buy snacks and gift crafts.

Balance Rock

Live Root Bridge

               We started our journey to Shillong and reach by 6PM. We took a stroll at Police Bazar (Market) for some local item shopping. The market is also famous for local street food, although we didn't try any dish. We did some shopping and had our dinner at City hut family Dhaba restaurant. We loved the ambience and food. We celebrated our wedding anniversary with tasty pastry and went to the hotel for rest.

Day 4 Expenses:
  • View-Point entry (Latara Fall): INR 20/- for 2 people
  • Khasi Dress rent: INR 200/- for 2 dress (Male and Female) without print Photo.
  • Dawki Boating (Long Ride): INR 1200/-
  • Tip to boatman: INR 70/- (Its an optional)
  • Lunch at Ka Bri War: INR 581/- for 2 people
  • Mawlynnong Village Parking: INR 50/-
  • Balance Rock point: INR 20/- for 2 people.
  • Live Root Bridge parking: INR 30/-
  • Live Root Bridge entry: INR 80/- for 2 people
  • Live Root Bridge Camera: INR 20/-
  • Chicken Momo at Stall: 60/- for the dish (6 pics)
  • Dinner at City Hut family Dhaba: INR 926/- for 2 people. (Starter, soup, Veg and Non-veg Momo, cold drink, 3 types of dessert cakes)
  • Cab to Hotel: INR 140/- (Normal rate for this distance is INR 100)

Day 5: 13 Feb 2020: Shillong Sightseen:
              We kept a few points for sightseen so we can have some rest and time for local shopping. We left for sightseeing after breakfast. Our first point was Shillong viewpoint. It is around 10-11 km away from Shillong market. This place comes under Indian Airforce so you have to clear security checks. After security checkpoint, photography is not allowed whereas you can use your camera at Shillong viewpoint. The viewpoint gives a spectacular bird's eye view of Shillong. The city looks most attractive from here only when the sky is clear. There are many local shops for snacks, traditional clothes and souvenirs at the viewpoint area.

Shillong View Point

             Our next destination was a sacred forest. It is around 25-26 km from Shillong. When we reached there, there was a vast stretch of open land and on its another end vast tall green canvas as if someone has drawn it to the scale in a straight line. It is also known as Mawphlang Sacred forest ( maw = stone, phlang = grass) which means Stone Grass. It is because due to heavy rains, high moisture and heavy morning dew, every rock and the rocky surface have a very thick coating of green moss which appears grass growing on the stones. There are two types of forest trails available with guides as a Half trail (30 Min) and full trail (1 hour). we took the full trail of 1 hour and our guide was Kerri Mame (A high school talkative smart boy)

Standing Stone represents Khasi men whereas Flat Stone represents Khasi Woman

            The forest is considered sacred by Khasi people. Gods are given sacrificial offerings at specific places by Khasi King marked by stones placed in a circle. During that era, if leopard appears after gods deity then it was considered as a good omen and if snacks appear in the forest then its bad Oman. No forest produce or product can be taken out of the forest though now local people started selling Rudraksha at the ticket counter. They believe that only Rudraksha is safe to take home as it is a blessing of God. The nature trail is beautiful. There are many varieties of trees which guide explains you during the trial. The guide was an enthusiastic photographer and took our pics using leaves and forest backgrounds. Weather was cloudy with freezing wind when we were about to finish the trail.

Sacrificial Offering place inside Forest

             We started our return journey to Shillong. Air force Museum was the next destination but we skipped it. The museum has old Indian air force's aircraft at display in open space. We reached Shillong during Lunch time as we had lunch at Bamboo Hut restaurant. Food was good in the taste. We went to the hotel for some rest in the afternoon. Shillong has a museum named Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous culture which presents the tribal culture and cultural history of the northeast. The museum features an impressive collection of indigenous articles and artefacts that depict the cultural richness of the region which gives overlook to the whole of North East India. The museum has seven floors and encompasses a total of 17 galleries that have artefacts, paintings, figures, sculptures, and much more on display. You need at least 2 hours to view the entire place.
              Ward's Lake is an artificial lake with a beautiful garden and walkways around it. There is also a boating facility available. Small Cafeteria is available which sells snacks and juices. After a quick visit to Ward's Lake, We went to Police Bazar (Main market place of Shillong) for shopping. You can buy local stuff, souvenirs, Cloths and many more item. All items are at High price so your bargaining power matters a lot to buy anything in Market. We purchased some local items from Emporium and had our dinner in the nearby restaurant. 

Day 5 Expenses:
  • Shillong Viewpoint Entry: INR 60/- for 2 people
  • Shillong viewpoint car parking: INR 30/-
  • Sacred Forest parking: INR 30/-
  • Sacred Forest entry: INR 20/- for 2 people
  • Sacred Forest camera: INR 50/-
  • Sacred Forest trail Chargers: INR 500/- for the full trail (INR300 for the half trail)
  • Lunch at Bamboo Hut, Shillong: INR 734/- for 2 people
  • Taxi to Market: INR 120/-
  • Ward's Lake Entry: INR 10 per person
  • Dinner: INR 525/-
  • Taxi to Hotel: INR 120/-

Day 6: 13 Feb 2020: Shillong - Kaziranga:
              We left Shilong by 9AM after breakfast. Today our plan was to reach Kaziranga before Sunset. Distance between Shillong and Kaziranga is around 260km. We took a pit stop at Umain Lake viewpoint. When we entered Assam, the road becomes wider and smooth. We took halt for lunch at Anurag Dhaba. It serves Delius Assami veg and non-veg meal. The ambience is simple and the restaurant was clean.
            After a few hours of drive, we entered in Kaziranga area. You may spot rhinoceros in the open fields. For safety, there is electric fencing on both sides of the highway. We stopped at one point which was around 15-20km before Kaziranga. We saw 3 rhino and wetland birds. After a quick 15-20 min break, we move ahead. we Reached Kaziranga national orchid and biodiversity park. Due to lack of time (orchid and biodiversity park closed at 5PM) we decided to see a few sections. Orchid and Biodiversity Park is located at the distance of about 2 km from the Central Range of Kaziranga. The park is spread in the area of around 6 acres and is considered as the largest orchid park in the Northeast belt of India. has different sections. Each section has guides who will explain to you the exhibits free of cost. The Orchid Park has more than 600 varieties of wild orchids of northeast Indian states. The whole variety of orchids is preserved in a greenhouse together with some hybrid varieties; some of them have been exclusively collected from the local region of the state. There are various galleries depicting local plants, animals, living style, culture etc, which is really a matter of attraction for tourist. We purchased an evening dance show ticket which starts at 8PM.

Orchid Park, Kaziranga
Orchid Park

Orchid Park, Kaziranga
Orchid Park, Kaziranga 

                We return to our hotel for the check-in process. We booked Tent stay at Mandu the escape hotel. The hotel was newly built. Property is beautiful and well maintained. Tents were clean with all the required facilities. After some rest and Coffee, We left for Culture dance show at Orchid and Biodiversity Park. Culture show performed by professional locals was fabulous. We really like the show. There were 7-8 types of cultural dance which ends with traditional Bihu dance.

Assamese Instrumental

Bamboo folk Dance

Bihu Folk Dance

               After the lovely performance, we came back to the hotel where our dinner was ready. They served our ordered dinner outside the tent. Weather was cold but the heater inside the tent helped for better sleep. we slept early as we booked 6AM Elephant Safari followed by 8:30AM Jeep safari.

Day 6 Expenses:
  • Tip in Shillong Hotel staff: INR 200/-
  • Lunch at Anurag Dhaba: INR 650/- (1 Veg meal, 1 Duck meal, cold drink and sweet dish)
  • Orchid & Biodiversity Park entry: INR 200/- for 2 (130 per head entry)
  • Orchid & Biodiversity Park Camera: INR 50/-
  • Orchid & Biodiversity Park Car parking: INR 20/-
  • Culture Show: INR 400/- for 2 Tickets.

Day 7: 14 Feb 2020: Kaziranga - Guwahati:
               We got the wake-up call by the Hotel staff at 4AM. We had lots of forest safari's in the past 7-8 years that we are used for an early wake-up schedule. Our driver came to the hotel by 5AM for pick up. Before 6AM we were at the starting point of Elephant Safari. This was our first safari experience on the elephant.
               Best Time to visit Kaziranga is from November to March. The park can also be visited from April to June but those months are a lot hotter and can make exploring the park much more tedious. Forest is not accessible during the rainy season from June to August. During this season, the monsoon is in full swing and causes the nearby Brahmaputra River floods its banks, sending water flowing into the park. Kaziranga National Park enjoys a tropical climate for most of the year. In total, the park is home to 2,400 plus one-horned rhinos and 100 plus tigers.

Welcome to Kaziranga National Park

Kaziranga Forest
Kaziranga Forest

              Total 4 people can seat on elephant for safari. Safari time around 45 to 60 min and their target is to roam around 3-4 km from starting point to spot the Rhino. They take you very close to Rhino and then back to start point via some different route. They are least bother to show other wildlife during elephant safari. The ride is definitely not smooth due to elephant walk on an uneven surface. We spot around 5-6 Rhino in elephant Safari. There were a mother and calf Rhino which we saw from a very close distance. Rhinos were busy with their routine activity and nothing disturbed them just like elephant safaris are now part of their life. We return to the start point by 7AM. Personally, we didn't like the elephant safari for 2 reasons. one, Elephant rider hit the elephant with the Bamboo rod if they fail to follow a command or take extra time to pick some plant branches/Fruits from Trees. and second is you hardly get a chance to see/capture other wildlife.

Rhino

             We came back to the hotel for breakfast. After Breakfast, our Safari Jeep came to pick up us for our planned safari. Our safari was booked in Central zone of Kaziranga. Even though Rhino and Tiger was the main attraction for us, we were not fixated on stars like tigers; other inhabitants of the forests were a delight to observe too. It was a cold morning and the entire zone was in silent mode. After the security check at the post, We entered the Forest. Kaziranga forest mainly inclusive of vast tall elephant grass, marshland, and dense tropical moist broadleaf forests, and the numerous small bodies of water.


Serpent Eagle

              Forest landscape was beautiful. forest route goes through a different part of the forest. We saw many groups of Hog Deer and wild water buffalo. After a few kilometres, we saw Rhino. Spotting Rhino is quite easy in Kaziranga forest. Rhinoceros are majestic animal.


              When I saw them for the first time, I just kept on looking and I could not able to move my eyesight. His skin folds across its flanks give it look of the armour-plated body. The horn that they have is actually a thick substance made up of keratin (Hair and Nail like material). It grows throughout life and can be regrown if broken. It is considered to have medicinal properties. That is a reason why they are poached and it is a reason behind them getting endangered. As a habit, they follow regular paths and defecate at the same place creating piles of dung. This makes it easy for poachers to find out their location and hunt them down.



               During Safri, Driver/Guide will drop you off at certain lookout points. You can view open marshland and spot mammals and birds. At one point we saw a variety of birds and mammals on open grassland. We were carrying our binocular so we can observe their activity. We took such breaks near marshland, River canals or Waterbodies.
             We saw many residential and migratory birds on our route. We were able to spot lesser adjutant, greater adjutant, black-necked stork, Asian openbill, painted stork, spot-billed pelican, lesser white-fronted goose, Pochards, Greater spotted eagle, white-tailed fishing eagle, serpent eagle, Pallas's fish eagle, lesser kestrel and many more birds during our Safari.

Lesser Stork

Spot Billed Pelican

             The best part of our Safari was when huge Rhino cross the route in front of our jeep and stopped at the side of the road for a couple of minutes. We saw swamp deer, spotted deer, barking deer and Sambar which are available in the forest in good quality. Watching Rhino every time during safari was a treat to the eye. Rhinoceros in Kaziranga are about 70% of the world's total rhino populations.

Rhino crossing

Wait till I cross the road...

              We were inside the forest for around 2 hours 30 min and we enjoyed each and every moment. The cold breeze, Beautiful landscape, Tall elephant grass and wildlife was a real treat. While returning to the gate, the driver observes some activity in huge Grass. Initially, we were unable to spot anything but soon we released that it was a wild Elephant. Grass in Kaziranga is such a tall that even elephant can easily hide inside it and hence it is called as Elephant grass (giant miscanthus). Considering such rich vegetation of the forest, It is really difficult to spot Bengal Tiger. Kaziranga offers you great biodiversity in terms of flora, fauna and vegetation.

Beautiful Kaziranga Forest

              We return to the hotel by 11:30AM after quick tea powder shopping in the local market. We had some snacks and left beautiful Kaziranga. The journey from Kaziranga to Guwahati was around 4-5 hours. We didn't take any break in between and reached Hotel landmark before 5PM. We had some rest and went out for our dinner cruise.
              There are multiple cruises which offer sunset ride (1 hour) or Dinner cruise ride. Our booking was for a Dinner ride on Alfresco Grand cruise. We boarded at around 7:15PM and the tour started at 7:30PM. It was good to go if you have spare time. They serve you Started (Very limited), one Mocktail and Dinner. The sand art video and voiceover depicting Assam’s great warrior Lachit Borphukan vs Mughal (battle of saraighat) history was good. There was a culture program but it was loud and bit commercial and not traditional. We attended a culture program in Kaziranga which was far better than the program on Alfresco Grand. There was karaoke which was of average quality. Few items from the meal were good in taste and ambience was okay. They also serve liquor Drinks at cost. We are non-alcoholic so no idea on rate and type of liquor. We enjoy the dinner tour Though, whether it's worth of INR 1300 per head or not is up to you.

Alfresco Grand Dinner Cruise

Tips for Kaziranga National Park Safari
1. You can book Jeep Safari on the spot. Sharing jeep is allowed so you can join the other groups to save money. However, We recommend booking private (No sharing) jeep is the best experience to explore in your terms if you can manage it.
2. In case you are on a budget trip and wanted to share the jeep, better to reach Ticket window 45 min prior to your safari timing which will give you more chances to look around for sharing groups.
3. For private Jeep safari (Non-Sharing), better to book forest permit in advance and if possible ask your hotel manager to arrange Jeep in advance. 
4. Carry ample amount of the Indian currency as at the most of places they prefer Cash. Big hotels/Restaurants and Shops accept cards or Open baning methods such as Google pay/Paytm etc.
5. We were staying at Kohora (Near Central zone) and we saw a couple of ATM machines as well.
6. There are 3 (Central, Western, and Eastern) different zones and each zone offers you unique and some animals pop up in higher concentrations in certain ranges. But all zones have good number is Rhinos
7. The boat safari is also available in the Brahmaputra river. check with the hotel or at Forest office for more details

Day 7 Expenses:
  • Elephant Safari: INR 950 per person (Booked by Friend)
  • Jeep Safari: INR 3050/- (It varies based on Zone and Time)
  • Permit fee: INR 200/- for 2 people
  • Staff welfare per vehicle fee: INR 300/-
  • Safari Road Toll: INR 100/-
  • Safari Camera fee: INR 200/- for 2 Camera
  • Tip to Jeep driver: ₹200/-
  • Snacks for lunch: INR 200/-
  • Dinner at Alfresco Cruise: INR 2600/- for 2 people (Booked by Friend)
  • Stay at Hotel Landmark: INR 3500 - 4200/- with Dinner & breakfast (Booked by Friends)

Day 8: 15 Feb 2020: Guwahati - Pune:
Our flight was at 3:45PM. The morning was free for us so we went to Fancy Bazar for some quick shopping. We wanted to visit Uma Nanda Temple which is located on the Island in Brahmaputra River. We skipped the Island visit due to cold foggy morning and lack of time. We visited the statue of Lachit Borphukan. He is known for his leadership in the 1671 Battle of Saraighat. In the honor of Lachit Borphukan, The best passing out cadet of National Defence Academy, Pune has conferred the Lachit Borphukan gold medal every year from 1999.

Lachit Borphukan Statue in Brahmaputra River

              We took a stroll on the bank of Brahmaputra river which is 9th largest river in the world. We had a tasty meal in the famous Paradise restaurant which serves authentic Assam local food. Ambience and service were good and we love the taste.

Assam local Non-veg meal

              Our driver dropped us to the airport. Airport was very crowded due to Bollywood stars as they were travelling back to Mumbai after attending Filmfare award on 14th Feb. We saw many actors-actress inside the airport but we avoided photo with them as they were surrounded by other traveller and even airport staff. We had our next connecting flight to Pune from Kolkata after 4 hours of layover time. We board the flight by 9:45PM and reached our sweet home.

Day 8 Expenses:
  • Uber to Fancy Market: INR 85/-
  • Uber to Restaurant: INR 90/-
  • Lunch at Paradise: INR 755/- (1 Veg meal and 1 Non-veg meal)
  • Uber to Hotel: INR 66/-
  • Car rent chargers: Not aware as Car was Booked by friend
  • Dinner at Kolkata airport: INR 600/-
  • Pune airport to Home by Uber: INR 230/-

Small Video from Our Assam and Meghalaya trip

Contact Number for Reference:
1. Hotel Landmark, Guwahati: 0361 2455248
2. Hotel La kupar Inn, Sohra (Cherapinji): https://lakuparinn.com/ (John +919856680199 / Bansan +919615093898)
3. Hotel Aerodene Cottage, Shillong: http://www.aerodene.in/ (Ronan: +9181198 07072 / Sharlene: +9197740 65366)
4. Hotel mandu the escape, Kohora, Kaziranga: https://www.mandutheescape.com/ (+919435150277 / +917002510432 / +919711801387)
5. Car Driver Bubhul: +919577746711
6. Khasi emporium, Shillong: +919612659653/+919612609891
7. Ka Bri war Restaurant, Dawki Road: +919366321258 / +917002035078.
8. City Hut Family Dhaba, Shillong: 03642220386.
9. Bamboo Hut Restaurant, Shillong: 03642501542 / 03642503430.
10. Restaurant Paradise, Guwahati: +919435548812, 03612666628.
11. Anuraag Dhaba, Nagaon (Guwahati-Kariranga highway): +919954506051 / +919101719674.
12. Pranab for Kaziranga Jeep Safari: +917002263443

Places which we missed due to lack of time:
Guwahati
1. Umananda Temple
2. Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary
3. Purva Tirupati Shri Balaji temple
4. Navagraha Temple

Shillong
1. Laitlum Canyons
2. Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures
3. Lady Hydari Park

Sohra/Cherrapunji
1. Arwah Cave
2. Dain-Thlen Falls
3. Wei Sawdong Falls
4. Wah Kaba Falls

Kaziranga
1. Majuli Island Village
2. Hoollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary or Hoolock Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary
3. Nameri Village for birding and butterfly


I will try to upload more and more travel blogs. Thanks for reading this Travel Blog.

Pritesh Kulkarni
Pune

Two Sisters State: Assam and Meghalaya: Part 1

Amongst the ups and lows of life, between all challenges, one gets a sweet peaceful space which reenergizes life. This North-East was one such. It was a customized package tour by our well-wisher where I and Renu chalked day-wise itinerary with the help of holiday partner Prena travels. Considering the wedding anniversary's occasion, They Booked a trip to Assam and Meghalaya. This trip helped us to bounce back from our tough time.
Travellers for this trip were Me and Wife Renuka.

Two State, Two Traveler... At Rainbow Waterfall
Two State, Two Traveller... At Rainbow Waterfall

               To avoid the length of my travel blog, I have divided it into 2 parts. In this part, will like to share my travel experience at Guwahati and Sohra.
To read my Next Blog, click on Two Sisters State: Assam and Meghalaya: Part 2

About Seven Sisters:
              7 States of India's North-east Part is known as Seven Sisters. Seven sister states are Assam (Dispur), Meghalaya (Shillong), Manipur (Imphal), Mizoram (Aizawl), Arunachal Pradesh (Itanagar), Nagaland (Kohima) and Tripura (Agartala). This name was used by journalist Jyoti Prasad Saikia in 1972. Seven States have similarity on Geographical, Economical and tribal culture. There are different views on the reason behind the name. But what I Feel is they are an integral part of India and blessed with lovely nature and rich culture.
Our trip was focused on Assam and Meghalaya. Assam shared the state border to rest north-east state and hence it is known as Gateway to North-East India. Dispur is the capital of the state but Guwahati is the primary entry point for Assam. Assam is situated just below the eastern Himalaya foothill. The state is famous for tea, Silk, one-horned rhinoceros, tourism and culture.
Meghalaya (Name meaning Home of Clouds) is a hilly state. Shillong is the capital of the state whereas Shillong is also known as Scotland of the East. Meghalaya is the wettest land of India with around 70% of the forest. The state offers you tourism throughout the year as per interest.

Our Day Wise plan:
Day
Date
Trip Plan
Stay
Day 1
09 February 2020
Pune to Guwahati via Kolkata.
Local Sightseen
Guwahati
Day 2
10 February 2020
Guwahati to Cherrapunji via Shillong.
Cherrapunji Sightseen
Sohra (Cherrapunji)
Day 3
11 February 2020
Double-decker Live root Bridge & Rainbow fall trek.
Shillong
Day 4
12 February 2020
Dawki River and Mawlynnong Village
Shillong
Day 5
13 February 2020
Local Sightseen
Shillong
Day 6
14 February 2020
Shillong to Kaziranga and local Sightseen
Kaziranga
Day 7
15 February 2020
Forest Safari and then Back to Guwahati
Guwahati
Day 8
16 February 2020
Local sightseen, Evening flight to Pune
Pune


Day 1: 09 Feb 2020: Pune to Guwahati:
             We boarded 06:15 AM indigo flight to Guwahati via Kolkata. We had breakfast at Kolkata airport and boarded next flight. We reached Guwahati airport by 11:45AM. Our driver welcomed us at the airport. The city is around 40-45 min (20-24 km) away. before we checked into the hotel, we took a small detour to meet the wife's colleague's family. We had a local cuisine lunch with them and spend a good time. kamakhya Temple was on the way to the hotel so we decided to visit the temple first rather than checking in the hotel first.

Kamakhya temple, Guwahati
Kamakhya temple, Guwahati

             Kamakhya temple is located on the Nilachal Hill and one of the oldest Shakti Peetha. The story behind Shakti Peetha is based on the death of Goddess Sati (Wife of Lord Shiva). When Lord Shiva got to know the death of Sati, he carried her body and roamed around it. Her Body parts fell on earth to become holy places known as Shakti Peetha. Kamakhya temple represents Goddess Sati's yoni fell after Shiva roamed with the corpse of Sati. The temple is an important pilgrimage for Hindus and especially for Tantric worshipers. It is always crowded with tourist and devotees.

Carving at Kamakhya Temple

             We got to know that it will take 2 hours for Darshan with VIP pass (INR 500) and around 4 to 5 hours in the normal queue. We decided to take Mukh Darshan. We're always more interested in architecture and carving of it. This temple also has beautiful carving around the temple wall. On the temple wall, We saw something unique. Lord Ganesh was carved on the wall with lots of round shapes holes in it. People were placing coins in the flat holes. Local believes if your coin remaining in the hole and does fall down then your wish will be granted soon by Lord Ganesha. We also saw many people wearing Phul-haar (flower garland for god) which was available in shops just outside the temple. Devotees offer Phul-Haar to the goddess and in return, the priest gives them another hear which is kept inside as Prasad (as a form of blessings).

Ganesh at Kamakhya Temple

               Temple has a section to light the Diya and Agarbatti (Joss Stick). We spend around an hour in the temple area and capture beautiful moments. The place was a bit crowded but in a disciplined manner. Most of the shops offer you to keep your footwears free of cost but in return, you have to buy flowers/Haar etc. we found a shop near to the entrance gate of the temple to keep footwears at nominal charges. We stopped at one viewpoint while descending the ghat for city view. Its not complete city view but worth to take a pit stop.


              After a visit to Kamakhya temple, we reached our pre-booked hotel Landmark. Hotel is located beside Nehru Stadium (Old-time Cricket stadium which is now converted to Local football ground). Overall the hotel and rooms were good though the service was a bit slow. we took some rest and left the hotel to visit Assam State Museum. It closed by 5 PM hence we were unable to explore it more. you need 2 hours to explore the museum. It is a perfect collection of Assam history, old sculptures, art and culture. There is a man-made rectangular shape lake near to Musume known as Dighalipukhuri War Memorial. walkway path around the lake, garden and Boating is available along with small display collection of Tank and aircraft.

View from Hotel Room

We went to Fancy market but most of the shops were closed due to Sunday. We came back to the hotel for dinner after a quick market walk.

Expenses:
  • Pune to Guwahati return Flight: INR 6000-7000 per person (It was booked by friends don't know the exact amount)
  • Home to Airport by Uber: INR 250/-
  • One Coffee at Kolkata Airport: INR 100/-
  • Snacks as breakfast: INR 300-400/- for 2 people (As per order)
  • Stay at Hotel landmark: INR 3500-4200/- with Dinner & breakfast (Booked by Friends)
  • Hotel to Fancy Market by Uber: INR 75/-
  • Cycle Auto to hotel: INR 90/-

Day 2: 10 Feb 2020: Guwahati to Sohra (Cherapunji) via Shillong:
              We woke up early morning to witness Sunrise. View of Stadium with the sunrise was worth. After breakfast, we left Guwahati by 8:30 AM. Today's plan to reach Sohra (Commonly famous by name Cherapinji) and cover on route points. After 20-30 km of drive, Hilly region began. As we gain height, the weather became colder and colder. The road was curvy but smooth. Soon we entered in Meghalaya State. Meghalaya can be visited throughout the year. Those are more interested in Waterfalls then the best time to visit is from September to December. For trekking, exploring nature and to enjoy the winter, better to visit between December to Mid March. For tourism March to May is the ideal time. Those who want to witness monsoon cloud affairs over mountains and beautiful monsoon then June to September is the Time.
              We took a pit stop at Umain Lake viewpoint. This lake also offers you multiple boating options at their boating club. We were not interested in boating so we decided to move ahead. We stuck in a traffic jam which is quite common to enter Shillong or to bypass due to limited entry points for Shilong and small roads. We bypass Shillong to visit our first place, Elephant Waterfall. It is just outside Shillong and on the way to Sohra.

Umain Lake, Shillong
Umain Lake

              Elephant waterfall is a multi-stage (3 stages) waterfall whereas the last stage has a larger fall area. you need to climb down around 100 odd steps to reach the base of the waterfall. The area is very well maintained. The actual name of the waterfall is Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew (meaning Three-step waterfall) but it is commonly known as Elephant fall. As per local, There was a huge rock which looks like an Elephant. It was damaged and destroyed in an earthquake.

Elephant Waterfall, Shillong
Elephant Waterfall, Shillong

              The first stage is Narrow and hidden in trees, whereas the second stage is relatively small but with good water force. The last stage is a cascade waterfall flow from fallowing down on rocks. Water is clear and in milky colour tempt you to capture a moment in camera. It is one of the must-visit falls from Shillong as other famous falls are in Sohra/Cherapinji. we clicked our photos and came back to the parking area. The parking area has many shops which offer you Maggi/Tea/Coffee and some local item for shopping.

Elephant Waterfall

At Elephant Waterfall

              We left fall after quick snacks and coffee. Our plan is to explore Sohra (Cherapunji) first. On the way to Sohra, we took a small break after Diwan Sing Syiem Bridge. It's is Valley viewpoint and cloudy rain was playing hide and seek with the sun. Now the weather turned cold and windy. we took a small break for Wah Kaba - Latara Fall. Due to lack of water flow, this fall was completely dry. We just saw the mountain landscape and move ahead.

Welcome to Sohra (Cherrapunji)

              We had a lunch break at Orange restaurant. The veg meal was very tasty, they also serve south Indian dishes. The restaurant run by female staff, in fact, we got to know which is similar to Leh-Ladhak. Most of the business in Cherapunji are run by females. Our Next destination was Nohkalikai waterfall. Nohkalikai means Jump of Ka Likai. As per locals, many years ago Likai named local female jump from the waterfall head. Her second husband killed her daughter when she was away for work. He cooked it and served it to her. when she realised it, she ran and jump to death as she was unable to bear thought of cannibalizing of her own daughter.

Nohkalikai Waterfall, Sohra

               Nohkalikai fall is the tallest plunge (waterfall's Verticle drop without cliff touch) waterfall. Its height is 340 meters. Due to its direct fall, Beautiful water pond created at the base. Watercolour of the pond is nature treat to watch. The view of the valley and waterfall is breathtaking to watch. The best time to visit the fall is monsoon to December when the view is most spectacular. Keep some spare time if you're visiting after monsoon as most of the time waterfall area is covered clouds or fog. Weather was cloudy when we visited but luckily the weather was cleared when we reach the spot. There were plenty of shops to buy souvenirs.

Nohkalikai Waterfall

             Our next destination was seven sister fall. Due to lack of water and off-season, the entire seven sister waterfall was dry. The actual name of the fall is Nohsngithiang. There are 7 waterfall streams hence popularly known as seven sister fall. The landscape of waterfall and valley is beautiful. With a quick visit, we went to our next destination Mawsmai cave.

7 Sister Waterfall

7 Sister Waterfall in Monsoon... PC: 7 Sister fall view Inn

              Meghalaya has more than 1000 caves. Mawsmai Cave is one of the most popular caves in Meghalaya for tourist. Amongst the most easily accessible of the many caves in Cherrapunji, Mawsmai Cave is an entryway to the world of underground adventure. It is simple enough to navigate, and you can manage without a guide. It is about 5-6 km away from the main town. The cave walls get narrow to walk alongside. Mind your head while taking a cave tour. There is another cave just besides Mawsmai but you're allowed to go inside with proper gear and guide.

Mawsmai Caves

Mawsmai Cave

               After a visit to the cave, we checked-in in the hotel La Kupar Inn. The hotel was simple with a beautifully decorated room. We had some local cuisine at the hotel for dinner and it was tasty. We meet the manager of the hotel to gather information on tomorrow's trek. Manager John explained to us about the route, what point to visit, do's and don'ts. He suggested, there is no requirement of the guide as the route is pretty straight forward. Still, we hired a local guide at the last minute as It was Renuka's first (hectic) trek after her medical recovery. Tomorrow, we decided to start our day by 6-6:30 AM.

Small Houses in Sohra... You will find many such small beautiful Homes in Sohra

Hotel La Kupar Inn, Sohra

Day 2 Expenses:
  • Toll: INR 75/-
  • Parking at Lake viewpoint: INR 20/-
  • Elephant Fall entry: INR 40 for 2 people
  • Elephant Fall Car Parking: INR 20/-
  • Elephant Fall Camera fee: INR 20/- (No fees for Mobile Camera)
  • Snacks at Elephant Fall: INR 100/- (Maggi 50, Coffee 40 and tea 10)
  • Car parking at Diwan Sing Syiem Bridge: INR 20/-
  • Wah Kaba - Latara Fall viewpoint entry: INR 20/- for 2 person
  • Lunch at Orange restaurant: INR 510/- for 3 people (170/- for Full Thali)
  • Nohkalikai Fall entry: INR 40 for 2 person
  • Nohkalikai Fall car parking: INR 20/-
  • Nohkalikai Fall Camera: INR 50/- (No fees for Mobile Camera)
  • Mawsmai Cave Car parking: INR 20/-
  • Mawsmai Entry: INR 40/- for 2 person
  • Mawsmai cave Camera/Mobile Camera: INR 40/- for 2 Camera.
  • La Kupar Inn Hotel Stay at Sohra: INR 2500/-

Day 3: 11 Feb 2020: Double-decker bridge and rainbow fall Trek:
             We somehow manage to wake up by 5:30-6AM. As Requested, Hotel manager arranged a packed breakfast for us. we checked out and left for Full day trek. There are 2 routes for the trek, one starts from Nohkalikai and another one from Tyrna Village. We started our trek from Tyrns Village. Route from Sohra to the village was in bad condition. We reached by 7:30AM at Tyrna Village. We were the first travellers for that day to start the trek. The idea was to reach Double decker Living root bridge early so we can capture photos of the bridge without any tourist on it. Cement steps are laid till the Double Decker bridge with few flat walking trails or pathways. The entire trek route goes through the dense forest and offers you a scenic view. You can see a variety of butterflies on the route after double-decker bridge till Rainbow waterfall.

Rainbow fall Trek map, Sohra
Trek Route Map gave by Hotel La Kupar Inn

               There are more than 3500 Steps to reach Double decker Living root bridge followed by a forest trail route till rainbow waterfall. We started our trek before 8AM. We saw a couple of tourists returning to Tyrna village. Mostly tourist prefers to visit Rainbow fall first and then stays near to Double-decker Living root bridge on the same day. Our plan was to trek till Rainbow Fall and return to Shillong on the same day. Guides are available at Tyrna Village with their fix rate card. Actually, there is no need at all to take guide till Double-decker Living root bridge whereas hiring a guide for rainbow fall is up to you. The route is very well marked. We were confused but then we hired a guide as it was my wife Renu's 1st trek post her medical recovery (She is really good trekker with strong stamina) whereas moto of hiring guide to seek help from him if required.

Tyrna Village and Starting point for Trek

Step on Trek route (Note: Steps are till Double decker root bridge and then trail till Rainbow Fall)

             The onward journey was mainly downhill. There were well-laid steps from the start point to the single root and to the double root bridges. So the knees got a little wobbly after a while. The steps are quite steep at some points too. Just before you reach the Nongthymmai village after the downhill, there is a path on your right for Single living root bridge. Don't worry if you miss this shortcut as there is another route from Village as well. There is an entry fee to visit the Single living root bridge. You have to take around 15 min de-tour for single live root bridge but it is worth to visit. It is believed to be the longest root bridge and 2-3 person can cross at the same time. these live root bridges are formed by rubber fig trees and they are partially man-made. Trible people use man-made material to increase the strength of the bridge. Live root bridges from Meghalaya are old and nature's blessing to Trible people. We cross the bridge and took some photo before we headed towards Double decker root bridge.

Single Live Root Bridge
Single Live Root Bridge, Nongthymmai (Populer nearby Village Tyrna)

Single Live Root Bridge, Nongthymmai
Single Live Root Bridge, Nongthymmai (Populer nearby Village Tyrna)

               We crossed 2 suspension metal bridge. Trek route goes through the forest with a lot of uphill and downhill. There are small food stalls near small villages where you can buy basic snacks like biscuits, chips, Water, Cold drink, Red Bull etc. do not expect product at MRP and paying extra for these products are worth considering the geographical challenges. Few stalls have Tea, Eggs and Maggi. After an hour trek, we reached the Double-decker Living root bridge which is located at the village Nongriat. It is one of its most admired wonders. Snuggled in the dense green forests of Meghalaya, the root Bridge remains blessed with rain for a major part of the year. It is one of the most stunning partly man-made structures of Meghalaya, created partly by the Khasi tribe.

Double Decker Live Root Bridge, Nongriat
Double Decker Live Root Bridge, Nongriat

Double Decker Live Root Bridge, Nongriat
Double Decker Live Root Bridge, Nongriat

               Double-decker bridge means the bridge has 2 decks or layers, which are created due to the entanglement of the roots. The lower bridge was original but occasionally became submerged in floodwater, so they formed a new one above it, using the same rubber tree. Both bridges were quite old and totally rigid. We were the only tourist to reach the bridge. We spend around an hour enjoying the natural beauty. There is a small water pond where you can get natural fish pedicure But you will have to wait patiently for the fish to come to you. Water was freezing chilled but worth to experience it. We had some Maggi and coffee (The only shop where we got the coffee). There are few homestays are available in the village with very bare minimum facilities but Best place spend a night in the peaceful forest. We wish we could stay here so we added stay at Double decker bridge in our to-do list. After an hour break, we started with our final leg of the journey.

Double Decker Live Root Bridge, Nongriat
Double Decker Live Root Bridge, Nongriat

Cold weather, Lovely Forest, Peaceful Village, Double Decker Live Root Bridge, No one around and Maggi with Wife!!!

               From this point onwards, things get excited. The walkable path vanished by now, mostly we were walking on uneven soils or climbing rocks. Another wire bridge came en route. I stepped in and realize that this was different than the previous two. As we walked in, the bridge started shaking with the minimum wind blow which was there. It was due to its length and height. View from Bridge was beautiful. By the time, the route was tough with the tiring steep hill climb with a narrow path. After 30-40 min trek, we reached Small, beautiful Blue lagoon. View and colour of the lagoon tempt us to take a small break to enjoy nature's beauty. Water was so clear that we skipped our plan to enter in the chilled water. After all why to spoil nature's beauty?

Blue Lagoon Near Rainbow Waterfall
Blue Lagoon Near Rainbow Waterfall

Blue Lagoon Near Rainbow Waterfall
Blue Lagoon Near Rainbow Waterfall

Blue Lagoon Near Rainbow Waterfall
Blue Lagoon Near Rainbow Waterfall

              After around 30 min trek, finally, we reach the Rainbow waterfall. View from height was lovely. Climbing down to reach the falls was challenging. You have to climb down the steep hill and then huge size rock boulders with the bamboo ladder. You forgot all the pain you had during the trek to reach the beautiful waterfall. After all the efforts, you arrive at this really stunning, breathtakingly falls, which produces rainbows when the sun shines on it. As it named Rainbow fall, you can view rainbows on the fall. If you are lucky then you can view multiple rainbows. We saw 2 small rainbow arch at a time at different levels.

Rainbow Waterfall
Rainbow Waterfall

Rainbow Waterfall, Meghalaya
Rainbow at Rainbow Waterfall

               We spend around 30 to 40 min. We wished that the time would stop. We climbed up and had our lunch as Maggi at the food stall. This was one of the best meal-time as we were having hot served Maggi watching rainbow fall and Blue clear water pond. It took us little more than 5 hours to reach the rainbow fall including our long break at Double decker bridge. The return journey started with beautiful memories.

Rainbow Fall



              I was super happy for her strong comeback in trekking. No one from our family and friend expected her such kind of comeback. Within an hour we reach near Double decker bridge. Few children from the village were playing Football on the ground (I surprised with the village's football ground even at such remote location) that I couldn't resist myself to join them for a few mins. We were unable to understand each other's language but we played like we know each other. We Took a small coffee break at Double-decker live root bridge and started with our remaining journey.

Photo clicked from one of the suspension Bridge
From Nongriat Village
From Nongriat Village

               Soon we reached the Nongthymmai village. We took a break at one of the food stalls for energy drink so we can start the final climb strongly. Our strategy was to climb continuously but at a slow steady speed. It was very tiring climb but managed to climb completely without a single break. We reached Tyrna village by 5 PM. Our driver was waiting for us. We started our journey for Shillong which was our next destination for a couple of days.

Small Live root Bridge near Rainbow Waterfall

               After 3 hours of journey, we reached Shillong. Our hotel was pre-booked at aerodene cottage. we were the only guest in the beautiful aerodene cottage resort. The moment we step in the room, we started getting peace and positive vibes. Excellent colour combination, tasteful décor, immaculate presentation and spotlessly clean beds & bathroom makes you feel really good while you are inside. The dining hall was nicely decorated and the breakfast served was quite good and filling. Dinner was also served with advance intimation. The greenery of the place will also perk up your spirits. We had dinner in the hotel and took a rest. It was a long tiring but one of the memorable day from Trip.

Aerodene Cottage, Shillong
Aerodene Cottage, Shillong

Aerodene Cottage, Shillong
Room in erodene Cottage, Shillong

Day 3 Expenses:
  • Car Parking at Tyrna Village: INR 50/-
  • Bamboo Stick for trekking: INR 20/-
  • Single Living Root Bridge entry: INR 40/- for 2 people
  • Single living root Bridge camera: INR 20/-
  • Double-decker bridge entry: INR 60/- for 2 people
  • Double-decker bridge camera: INR 50/-
  • Maggi at Double decker bridge: INR 50/-
  • Coffee at Double decker bridge: INR 40/-
  • Red Bull drink: INR 280/- for 2 can(Due to Remote Jungle area, the rates are high and justified)
  • Maggi at Rainbow Fall: INR 120/- for 3 plate
  • Water bottle in overall Trek: INR 75/- for 3 Bottles
  • Small Cold Drink Can: INR 50/-
  • Fruits plate: INR 60/-
  • Guide Fee: INR 1000/- till Rainbow fall trek whereas INR 700 till Double-decker bridge. (No need to hire Guide as Route is well marked and No miss leading paths in route)
  • Tip to Guide: 100/-
  • Aerodene Cottage Stay at Shillong: INR 3000 to 4000/- per night (Booked by Friends)

Contact Number for Reference:
  • Hotel Landmark, Guwahati: 0361 2455248
  • Hotel La kupar Inn, Sohra (Cherapinji): https://lakuparinn.com/ (John +919856680199 / Bansan +919615093898)
  • Hotel Aerodene Cottage, Shillong: http://www.aerodene.in/ (Ronan: +9181198 07072 / Sharlene: +9197740 65366)
  • Hotel mandu the escape, Kohora, Kaziranga: https://www.mandutheescape.com/ (+919435150277 / +917002510432 / +919711801387)
  • Car Driver Bubhul: +919577746711
  • Khasi emporium, Shillong: +919612659653/+919612609891
  • Ka Bri war Restaurant, Dawki Road: +919366321258 / +917002035078.
  • City Hut Family Dhaba, Shillong: 03642220386.
  • Bamboo Hut Restaurant, Shillong: 03642501542 / 03642503430.
  • Restaurant Paradise, Guwahati: +919435548812, 03612666628.
  • Anuraag Dhaba, Nagaon (Guwahati-Kariranga highway): +919954506051 / +919101719674.

Places which we missed due to lack of time:
Guwahati
1. Umananda Temple
2. Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary
3. Purva Tirupati Shri Balaji temple
4. Navagraha Temple

Sohra
1. Arwah Cave
2. Dain-Thlen Falls
3. Wei Sawdong Falls
4. Wah Kaba Falls
5. Trek from Nohkalikai to explore few waterfall (2-3 Hours) (Trek start just 1km before Nohkalikai Fall Parking)

Small Video from our Assam and Meghalaya Trip:


Please click on Next blog to read about our further journey: Two Sisters State: Assam and Meghalaya: Part 2

I will try to upload more and more travel blogs. Thanks for reading this Travel Blog.


Pritesh Kulkarni

Pune